Damn go to all that trouble to elinate a ballast restior. It doint have a hotter spark than Chrysler electronic igination. I know about spark. Trust me. Thanks Ron Parker










Bagels Juiced Im Boosted

Yeah, it "do".

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Know it doint . Pull a spark across a plug gap and see how much voltage it takes. I think that is about 25000 volts for a 1/4 inch. Now with 50000 volt coils on a 40 thounsand spark on a plug how much spark do you want. Thanks Ron Parker

You evidently haven't yet got around to reading the articles you've been pointed to, so I'll leave you to your opinions, which are correct as far as they go but miss the point.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

OK A redneck racer caint argue about that. Boys I have the MOPAR in My Racer. No MSD NO HEi JUst A MOPAR . Been There Done That. Thanks Ron Parker










Bagels On Juice Im Boosted

Ok I received my FSM manual the other day. After reviewing the ignition wiring i see that its only 14 gauge wire for the ignition system all the way to the switch. Is 14 gauge wire heavy enough to get the complete benefits of the HEI upgrade or should I run a 12 gauge wire like most articles on the net suggest? There are 12 gauge red and pink wires coming from the fusible links to the ignition switch, but thats it. If I should run a 12 gauge where would I run it from?
Thanks for the help everyone.

Dave

14-gauge wire is plenty.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Where would you hook up a tach wire. I had it on the + coil on the points but now it's not working on th hei. Thanks

Hook it to the negative terminal on the ignition coil.

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Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

Thanks. Hope I didn't fry it.

"Hot" doesn't just refer to voltage. When the spark fires, it delivers energy to the air/fuel in the plug gap, and the amount of ENERGY delivered (not the voltage) determines the peak temperature in the gap, and how well it will ignite the air/fuel mixture. You can make more voltage than any coil hooked to a plug will develop just by scuffing your feet on the carpet and then touching the spark plug wire, but there's very little energy. What the HEI does is deliver more energy (not voltage!) per spark, and is therefore "hotter." After all, "HE" in "HEI" stands for "high energy." And unlike most GM stuff, its not just all advertising....

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OK, I dredged this thread up for a real reason. This past weekend, I finally got around to fiddling with my HEI installation. This was prompted by some ignition trouble with the Mopar box, that seemed suspiciously like what I'd seen when I tried the HEI box- generally ratty behavior in "spurts". Earlier in the thread I hypothesized that the HEI module was more sensitive to noise pickup on the trigger lines than a Mopar box. I now think that this is TRUE, but not by a wide margin, its just a little more sensitive. Or the fact that it generates more energy in the secondary wiring means that when its installed there's more noise there to cause interference.


What I did to fix my problem was clean up my wiring bundle. I separated the ignition wires completely out from other wires (alternator, regulator, headlamps, electric fan control line, and a few other things) running to the module location on the radiator core support. And while I had it all splayed apart, I made a "twisted pair" out of the lines running from the distributor pickup to the module, which makes them more resistant to noise.

Not only did that clear up the rattiness with the Mopar box, the HEI now works fine too. Lesson: don't be a pigpen with your wiring harnesses, noise pickup CAN affect ignition modules.

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Ok I finally got my HEI hook up.
I used a module I picked up from the salvage yard. I mounted it to a heat sink that I had laying around from a computer processor. It ran ok for 24 hrs with the lean burn distributor. Then we installed the electronic distributor the following day. I drove it home, went out later and it wouldn't start. After some trouble shooting we determined the module had gone bad.
So the next day I went and had the module tested, it tested fine, so I replaced the stock coil with the blaster 2 coil, still would not start. So it was time to buy a module. Had the module test at a different auto parts store and it tested good again, but they said it heat up pretty fast. I said i'm replacing it anyway.
If you've read this entire thread you know i wanted to mount this in the original location of the Lean Burn computer. Well I disassemble the computer and found that after pulling the electronics out of the housing I was left with an 8 3/4 inch X 4 inch area for a heat sink. So i picked up a piece of 1/4 in aluminium plate to fit in the housing, shouldn't have any heatsink issues. Some would say that I went thru allot of trouble to mount this module. But the housing is designed with 2 openings one where air is drawn in by the other opening that is connected by a hose to the breather intake hose, there by drawing cooler air across the entire inside of the housing. I have been driving it like this since Saturday and have not had any issues so far.
UPDATE:
I checked my milage on the first full tank of gas since the conversion and with vacuum advance my mileage has gone from 14.8 to 17.8 or 27% increase, I guess I didn't have any vacuum advance with the computer on there.
I am presently running a #59 jet in the 1920 carb and its still rich, so #56's are on the way.
Also does anyone have a photo of the metering block for the 1920 that show's the correct location of where all the check balls should be? When my friend rebuilt the carb he said there was one loose check ball in there and I don't think there should be. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I would like to say thanks again to everyone for help with this conversion and all responses to this post.
If anything changes I will let you all know.
Thanks again everyone

Dave

xjarhead, Could you give us an update now? Are you still running the HEI? Did it hold up? Did your higher mileage continue? Are you still running the blaster2 coil? Have you managed to add timing control somehow? What distributor are you running now? Did you shield the wires? Have you had interference issues with the VR signal?

Sam

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Sam,
Everthing is still the same. Mileage had been the same. The 1920 is on its last leg.
Running distributor from mid 70's volare.
Timing is 12 degrees btdc.
30 total with mechanical at 2000 rpm.
I think it was around 47 with advance.
I have not had any issues that you speak of.
I am getting ready to do a Weber Jeep conversion on it in hopes of even better full mileage.
The Weber conversion works on the Super six manifold, or any aftermarket manifold with correct adapters.

Dave

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86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg