Hello all. ive been around here before, starting fresh. i am planning on a 4spd o/d swap soon into my 78 Volare. trying to save it and make it my DD again.
I was wondering what a good upgraded clutch would be? i seen someone here use's a 10" mcleod. I don't have any clue where would be the best place to find a good one so i figured i would ask.

Thanks ahead!

Bob

Hello,

Mcleod makes good stuff. Having said that, is their stuff better than you need....as in whatcha gonna do? Drag racing in trucks takes something different than going to work in a small car you never goose. I find the 10" B+B does quite well and they can be had for less than $75. I use a mildly built truck with a 4speed and love to put my foot in it. If I did any more I would add a clutch explosion shield though, after seeing the pics on this site. So I guess I consider myself at just below what I think McLeod is used for. Others will have their opinions too!
rock
'64d100

Hello,

Mcleod makes good stuff. Having said that, is their stuff better than you need....as in whatcha gonna do? Drag racing in trucks takes something different than going to work in a small car you never goose. I find the 10" B+B does quite well and they can be had for less than $75. I use a mildly built truck with a 4speed and love to put my foot in it. If I did any more I would add a clutch explosion shield though, after seeing the pics on this site. So I guess I consider myself at just below what I think McLeod is used for. Others will have their opinions too!
rock
'64d100

For the daily Driver - wihch I have the same car /setup in my 79 Volare 225 2 BBL, 833-OD,

Use the Chrysler 10" Borg and Beck Clutch and Pressure plate Setup. (Its probably listed under Heavy Duty in your local parts store books / computer)

I use the 10" Mcleod Setup in my drag race dart - See sigintaure line, But $600 - $700 Dollars in parts alone is waay over kill for a driver - Granted Mcleod makes grat stuff, but unless you are going to drag race above 4000 Rpm you dont need it.
If you are really intrested in the mcleod parts I will dig up the part #'s But be aware you have to buy the Flywheel from them to make the 10" setup work, plus shim the Clutch fork pivot in the bellhousing, and Remove the over center spring under the dash.



Use the heavy duty 10" B&B Clutch/ Plate for your driver.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Hey Greg, you don't happen to have a P/N for the Borg & Beck kit do you? I checked Napa, Partsamerica and Rockauto but couldn't find their name on anything. It sounds like the ideal setup for a mild DD, which is my current goal with the Duster when I have the 833OD installed.

_________________
'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

I plan on seeing more than 4k when im beating on it but only 5k max. so ill stick with the 10" borg and beck until i finish out other plans beyond a 4spd and ford rear.

Thanks fella's, much appreciated!

Slanting 78 - be careful as The Borg and Beck Units Tend to explode and wont last long on High Rpms

Check Here for carnage info and pics
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... 07&start=8

Jopapa-
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList ... c+Bearing)

On parts america.com

Here are the part#s founf for the B&B 10" setup - Bolts to slock Flywheel / Bellhousing.

NU1525
MU15251

Slant six dan might have a better quality part# for you - I actually get this setup (and all my Stock type Clutches) from a local clutch rebuiler - See if you can locate on in your white / yellow pages - It will not be chung sheng parts store crap if you get your pieces form a good local repetauable rebuilder.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

do these 10" clutches bolt up to the 122 tooth flywheel? and will they fit under the cast iron bellhousing?

Hi 64,

The 10" clutch set goes right on the 122 tooth pressure plate, and works with the 833OD aluminum bell. however, as Doctor Dodge has suggested, I went with allen head pressure plate bolts after sweating bullets hoping I was going to get the hex head ones out a few times. Not much room on or off the vehicle to loosen the hex. Yeh, I rounded one, had to drill and tap it....fun. but not as much fun as a quick run in and out with a allen drive on the torque wrench.

As to cast iron, do you mean the cast iron 833 bell, or the cast iron truck bell? With the truck belll you really oughta use the large pressure plate and clutch. It seems I remember my truck stock set as nearly a 12 inch clutch and a 13" flywheel, and that for sure won't work in the 833 stuff.

As Greg is intimating, give some serious thought to an explosion shield if deep in your heart you know you are going to be doing some high winds and clutch snaps, racing or not. If you drive ever now and then as if racing, your clutch doesn't know you don't think you're racing. But I have gotten safer as I got older!
rock
'64d100

maybe ill just save up.... i knew i read about that somewheres...

thanks for the pic/info!

where could one be had for a slant?

Are you speanking about the Mcloed Clutch setup or an Explosin Shield?


Please be specific.



Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

thanks Rock,

I'm talking about the early 833 cast bell. not the truck unit. where can the allen head bolts be found? I'm pulling my motor this weekend or the next. a new clutch is going in as well.

Hi '64,

THese are common as dirt. My town is large enough to have bolt and fastener stores, but if yours is not, I can't imagine a auto supply without them, or a machine shop not having access. I regret I don't remember the length...you for sure don't want too long past the head. Pull one and measure it.

rock

explosion