Checked my oil today while I was working on my Duster, and I seem to have gone through a quart of oil since I changed it a month ago. I put in 10W-30 Mobil 1, so I'm hoping it's just a leak (which I'll verify once I get the car up on a lift), but if I'm actually burning oil, NOT COOL!

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Could be as simple as valve stem seals.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Man that'd be nice. I could take the opportunity to get oversized 3-angled valves and a ported/polished head...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Well, if you need an excuse, that's as good as any. However, you can change the valve stem seals without pulling the head.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Qrt a month is bad??

Spark plug tube seals, valve cover gasket, dipstick tube, oil pan gasket, front main seal, breather and PCV grommets...

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

No tubes (peanuthead), brand new valve cover gasket, no leaks there (first place I looked). Everything else, still gotta check.

Didn't realize you can change the valve stem seals without pulling the head. Very difficult?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

I've done it a couple of times using compressed air to a spark plug thread fitting.
The tools are available from car parts places. I made my first one, but the ones you can buy are much nicer.
It doesn't take a lot of pressure. I usually dial the regulator down. I ran it at ~30 PSIG last time and was careful not to get too carried away. Sometimes when compressing a spring, the valve can get bumped off the seat. Use care. A little bump doesn't hurt, but you don't want the valve to get too far off the seat.
Have you had an opportunity to run the engine on a long trip yet? I've had oil burners that cleared up after a good long haul. My scout used oil up till I made a six hour run across the Cascades and out into the eastern desert. Never burned a drop after that. That came from rings sitting in one spot for years before it was run again. Once they re-seated, no more problem.
How's your PCV Valve? Common problem. I replace mine once a year. They're cheap, and tend to wreak all kinds of havoc.
I've been running 5w30 Synthetic with virtually no oil use.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I don't believe I'd use synthetic oil in a slant. The stuff is too slippery for a flat tappet cam; doesn't let the lifters rotate on in their bores like they should. What I have seen leads me to believe that a good conventional oil, preferably rated for diesel service, is the way to go.

I've used the compressed air method myself but others use a legth of rope. Just thread a foot or so of it into the cylinder then - by hand! - turn the engine over until it pushes the rope up against the valves. Then when done turn it backwards and retrieve the rope. I would use nylon rope because it is less likely to shed material into the cylinder and it's more flexible. Still, something just goes against my grain to stick something into the cylinder that doesn't belong there.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Synthic oil maybe your problem here, well it not likely the oils fault but...
My service truck was a synthic oil vehical from 5000 miles 30,000 then needed valvejob(bend valve) and started using oil, about 1 quart every 2000 miles. I dealt with it for many miles, maybe untill the 80,000 mile mark. Decided it cost to much and switch to conventional oil and it stopped using oil. I believe the engine is at fault and not the oil, but its mechanical condition to not condusive to using the synithic.
I'd switch to conventional oil and see what happens first. You likely nneed valve seals, but if it stops using with conventional oil, why spend the time and money on the seals.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Try Delo 400 or Rotella T instead of the synthetic. I run Delo 400 15w-40 in my car.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

I do not believe any of the above is correct, sir. Synthetic oil has been used with excellent results in slant-6 engines for many years, and there is no scientific basis for the "too slippery, doesn't let the lifters rotate" notion.

There is a flat-tappet-related oil issue we now have to pay attention to, but it has nothing to do with whether the oil is synthetic or not: Zinc extreme-pressure additives have been present in engine oils for many years. They contain Phosphorus, which even in minuscule doses affects the hypersensitive exhaust catalysts used in current ultra-super-mega-low-emission vehicles. These extreme-pressure additives are also (so goes the claim) unnecessary in engines with roller-type valve lifters (i.e., virtually all of them today), which eliminate the sliding-friction junction of camshaft and solid non-roller lifter, which was what the Zinc additive was used to lubricate/cushion. The latest API oil service rating for gasoline engines is "SM". The SM standard either eliminates the Zinc additive or limits it to such a low concentration that these oils give significantly poorer protection of the solid lifter-to-camshaft junction compared to previous-spec oils. In everyday terms, the latest engine oils are not slippery enough (rather than 'too slippery') when it comes to the camshaft-tappet junction.
Some of the heavy duty (diesel-rated) oils are very good indeed, and using a conventional diesel-rated oil is less costly particularly with an engine that burns and/or leaks oil, but even many of these are moving to the SM service rating. It is only going to get more difficult (not easier) to find SL-rated oils that contain the higher levels of ZDDP.
Yep! This method works well and is easier and cheaper than the compressed-air method unless you happen to have compressed air and the spark plug adaptor to get it into the cylinder, without buying or renting the equipment to do so. I use a longer length of rope just to make sure to have a nice lonnnnnng "handle" by which to pull the rope back out.
Pick your paranoia: A piece of rope temporarily in the cylinder, or the chance that the air supply will fail in some way and the valves will drop instantly.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan, I know you don;t like additives, but maybe there is a place here for an additive that replaces those compounds lost in the newer formulations. Do any of the oil stabilizers out there replace these? If not, maybe there is a place for someone to develpe such a thing.
Sam

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So once you have the valves secured (whether by air or by the rope method), all you've gotta do is grab the seals and pull, or is it a bit more involved than that?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Just pull. If they are hard and crumbly, get the vacuum cleaner....

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG