I'll have 9 hours to do the job, and do it right. I think I've got all the necessary hardware I'll need, plus new heater hoses, new thermostat (gonna backflush the engine since I'll have the coolant drained down), new temp sensor, and a new exhaust flange gasket. Cross yer fingers that I'll get it all done before 6 PM tomorrow, because I can't wait to hear it running with no exhaust leaks (and I need it to drive to work on Friday since my Toyota is still without an alternator).

So now for the obligatory request for any tips that'll save me time and frustration during the install (and swapping out of manifold/head studs)...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Already planning on replacing all of the head/manifold studs. Got the correct new Dorman studs, new brass nuts, and the acorn nuts (and washers) appear to be in good enough condition to reuse.

And of course, I have the proper Aussie gaskets to use, which is why I'm doing the swap in the first place.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Following up with the progress so far. Didn't get it finished today, so I'll have to mooch a ride to work with someone tomorrow (d'oh), but I'd rather take my time and do it right than rush myself. I also changed all the cooling/heater hoses, thermostat, and backflushed the cooling system as well. The stuff that flushed out was NASTY. There was so much gunk in there that I had to stick a screwdriver into the block's drain hole to loosen it up and let it drain. Hopefully I got it all out when I flushed it though, so now I'm happy.

Anyhoo, for the manifold, all the studs came out without a problem. The uppers I was able to use a stud extractor on, and the lowers I was able to use the "two nut" trick to remove. Not a single one broke, stripped, or sheared. A couple came close, but stayed intact. My exhaust manifold is warped to just over 1/8" difference in height between the #1 and #6 runners. I was able to get it back onto the head, but barely. Hopefully when I'm able to go the BBD route I can get me a set of Dutra Duals or headers. Anyway, the manifolds are on and waiting to be torqued down tomrrow when I get off work, then I just need to reassemble and finish the tune up and I'll get to finally hear a slant without an exhaust leak!

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

1/8" is quite a bit ( 0.125 ) of warpage. If it were me I'd get them surfaced flat.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

The surface is dead-on flat, but the exhaust manifold warps up as it goes forward from the #6 cylinder. Not the warpage that can be fixed by resurfacing

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

How odd. Well, if the surface if flat then you should be good to go.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Yeah I was pleasantly surprised with how smoothly it's been going so far. I hope my luck holds out tomorrow afternoon...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

I found that I had to trim the aussie gasket a little around
the water themo housing on my 73, otherwise it was a good fit
as far as the ports and studs went....

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http://imageevent.com/jeffc
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Belveder A318 727 4d
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4spOD
Old iron or no iron

Yeah I had to take about 1/8" or so off to get my thermostat housing on. Boy thank God I knew about the long screwdriver and string trick when I went to put the washer on the stud underneath the choke bowl. What a royal pain in the arse to get to it. I ended up dropping three other washers into the downpipe of my exhaust before getting one on successfully. So now I have to pull off my exhaust and spill 'em out so I can use them. Shoulda put something over it

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

OOOO I hate it when that happens.
I have used a long thin philips screw driver for that
many times and standard driver to give it
a shove onto the stud........ never tried the string, maybe the
next time....

Was working on my 383 carb linkage today after a cam, carb
and intake swap, dropped 2 washers down the
heatriser hole in the center of the head, least the
one I didn't get out won't make funny rattles....

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http://imageevent.com/jeffc
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Belveder A318 727 4d
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4spOD
Old iron or no iron