Okay, I heard a brutal rattling today while driving on a bumpy road, and it sounded like it was coming from one of the front wheels. So I attempt to pull the wheel off, only to find that not only were all the lug nuts way undertorqued, but one of them was so stripped it was freely spinning on the stud. I'm amazed I hadn't yet lost that wheel on the freeway. So I'm going to just go ahead and replace all the studs and nuts, and repack my front bearings at the same time.

Sadly, I don't have an FSM yet (will order one ASAP), so hopefully you guys can answer my questions here: what torque setting do I want for the retaining nuts on the front hubs? What's the ideal bearing preload?

For the rears, will it be necessary to pull the axle shafts out of an 8.25" axle to change the lug studs, or can I do it without the mess of pulling them?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

According to the '62 FSM you want to tighten the nut to 70 in lb while rotating the wheel. Position the retainer so that one set of slots lines up with the hole in the spindle. Back of one slot and install the cotter pin. Clean the grease cap and coat the inside ( do not fill ) with grease and install. If you have LBP hubs the torque rating might be 90 in lb as it is for a B-body.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

You can pull new studs in by making a spacer to fit that will clear the knurl as it comes through the axle as you tighten the nut. Make sure to line the knurl in the old slots so you have an easier time pulling them in.

However, the best way is to remove the axles and press the studs in.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I take it I can just knock the old ones out with a hammer and brass drift if I leave the shafts installed?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Yes you can. In fact you don't really need the brass drift; just smack them hard with a hammer once or twice and they'll pop out. Be sure to wear eye protection. When you draw the new ones through you can turn the nut around so that the flat part faces the axle flange. A couple of thick washers will let the stud pull all the way through. Just be sure and retorque your wheels every few days for a while until everything is seated in good.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

As read from four different books:

Chilton's Dart & Demon Repair & Tune-Up Guide 1968-76 second Edition
copyright 1975
Wheel Bearing Adjustment
1 Tighten the adjusting nut to 90 in lbs-1968-72 and to 240-300 in lbs-1973-76, while rotating the wheel with a wrench.
2 Back off the adjusting nut to complectly release any bearing preload.
3 Then finger-tighten the adjusting nut and install the locknut with a cotter pin. The resulting adjustment should yield no more than 0.003 in. of end play.
[Same as described in Chilton's Auto Repair Manual 1976 american cars from 1960 to 1976copyright 1975 AND Chilton's Auto Repair Manual 1977 american cars from 1970-1977 copyright 1976]


Haynes' Chrysler Rear-Wheel Drive Automotive repair Manual
copyright 1994
Front Wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment
20 Carefully place the hub assembly onto the spindle and push the grease packed outer bearing into position.
21 Install the washer and spindle nut. Tighten the nut only slightly(no more than 12 ft-lbs. of torque).
22 Spin the hub in a forward direction while tightening the spindle nut to approxamatly 20 ft-lbs to seat the bearings and remove any grease or burrs which could cause exesive bearing play later.
23 Loosen the spindle nut 1/4 turn, then using your hand(not a wrench of any kind), tighten the nut until it's snug. Install the lock nut and cotter pin.

20 ft lbs is 240 in lbs and I think that's too tight. I'd follow the FSM for the year and model in question; mine's a little old but maybe someone has the right one to post the instructions.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

yeah, that does sound like a bit much, eh?


for some reason, I recall setting my buddy's Newport at 12 in lbs...

I've done a lot of them by feel but that's really little better than guesswork. If you get them too tight they'll burn up in short order; too loose and the steering wants to wander.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.