Now this thread is getting fun. This car is street driven, and I just want to get out of preignition when I want to romp on it at a stop light.
Sam

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Have you tried any kind of cold air induction? As long as it flows well and doesn't suck in water it can't hurt. You can always unhook the hose in winter.

Dan, where do you get $.69 conventional oil and $12.00 Redline? I don't think the price spread is quite that much!

Really though, an engine will not develope sludge at lower temps with a real synthetic. I say real because most of whats on the shelves starts out life as conventional oil and they somehow modify it. And they use some of the same multi grade additive packages.
It's not just the pollutants that form sludge but the paraffin content of the oil is a big factor too. The synthetics just don't coke up. I have run two of my own engines over 100,000 miles each mostly below 175 degrees and they were perfectly clean inside at teardown. Other engines of mine run with 180 thermostat and fewer miles had some sludge on valvoline, but not bad. I mention the brand because I have seen excessive sludge, brick sized chunks, in engines run on another very popular brand. Great lubricant, but the high paraffin in some base oils (starts with a "P") really sludges things up.

It's called "hyperbole", or exageration for the sake of emphasis. I have not bought generic oil lately but I'll bet it's less that $2.00 a quart. I do buy Mobil 1 by the case at Costco at about $4.00 a quart. I expect Redline and some of the other high end potions would be at least $7.00.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

I hope you didn't have to look that up!

I wasn't really looking for prices. There is a proper term for my reply as well.

My thoughts about technical things are that they at some point boil down to facts. Those facts are what we are looking for. They are not always what we want.

Valid opinions about cars are really more about how they fit our needs and desires. Things like does it run cold, ride nice, is it fun, cost verses return for anything, does it operate day in and day out so that you can drive it to work and keep your job etc. Those things have different values to everyone and are subject to opinion.

What is actually happening in and engine is a matter of fact. Whether or not we understand what that really is is another matter.

So ideas and theorys are great and are part of the problem solving proccess and fun. I just can't hold back a little sarcasm when it comes to every little thing being debated just for the sake of it and dismissing valid points, or even established facts in the process. Out of context quotes comes to mind. This isn't politics, so no need for the BS. Old misconceptions die hard, I am not always in agreement when my own experience does not show them true.

I say keep the ideas and input flowing. Keep it good natured whether you agree or not. Avoid trying to one-up other posts just to be or look right, that goes against the real reason for having a forum. When our theorys don't match the results, get another theory![/quote]

This ought to take the discussion in some interesting directions:

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23524

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

OK

The Thermal conductivity looks interesting. There was no information about water based coolant heat transfer to compare it to... 0.113 to 0.118 btu/hr-ft-f for Evans' coolant. It doesn't seem that high. What is the conductivity of 50/50 water/glycol at normal engine operating temperatures? Water is about .347 btu/hr-ft-f Roughly triple that which Evans material conducts. The glycol added to water reduces conductivity, but how much and under what conditions?

As long as the temperatures don't go below 70 F, the viscosity shouldn't pose a problem, but the compound is significantly more viscous than a water system. That will result in greater pumping loss. Probably could alleviate that with larger passages, and cleaning flash out of the coolant system. I would hesitate to under pump this coolant.

Nifty. Not quite as efficient unless the surface to be cooled is cavitating with a water coolant. Cost some gas to run. It's a start.

I don't think it will find much use in passenger cars due to the wide range of temperatures they are used in, and the lesser capacity of the coolant. Imagine pulling the grade up to Las Vegas with that stuff. You'd need the 375 degree F boiling point! She's gonna get warm. (IMHO)

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing