Hopefully I'll be able to scam a day off this Friday, so I'll take my car into the shop so I can use a lift and inspect my flywheel and the torque converter bolts. My question though, is what is the best method to rotate the crankshaft? On the crank pulley on my Toyota, there's a large nut that I can put a socket on to turn it clockwise, but on the slant in my Duster, whatever's there appears to be recessed into the pulley. Is it just a simple matter of getting the correct socket on/in there with a ratchet and turning it clockwise?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Remote starter switch with the coil disconnected?

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Excuse me, does this smell like chloroform to you?

I thought of that, but I'd much rather be able to turn it by hand so I can get a boroscope up in there to look around in the bellhousing and feel around the assembly with my hand.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Pull the plugs, it should turn pretty easy then. I wrap the fan belt around the crank pulley and rotate it with the belt.

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Excuse me, does this smell like chloroform to you?

Probably the cleanest and easiest way is to go get the right bolt and washer to install in the front of the crank. It's not needed to hold the pulley on, but it does make it much easier to turn the engine small amounts. The bolt is ¾"-16, 2¼" long. The appropriate flatwasher is about 2" diameter or a little under.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I think you oughta put the bolt and nut in the crank to work up top, but if I was looking for the bolts in the bell, I would use a flywheel turner. Kind of a strange gripper that fits in between a span of teeth, and as you turn, grips the teeth and rotates the assembly. Less than $6 at harbor freight.
rock
'64d100

That doesn't sound like a bad idea. Got a part number? I just checked around on their site and couldn't find anything like what you described.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

I have done the same thing with a large screwdriver. It will only turn a couple of teeth at a time but it will work. The flywheel turner is definitely a better solution if you can find it.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

i've used a leakdown tester to turn over an engine before

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In progress: '64 Dart Vert

Dan's right on with the bolt. For some reason, it is missing on many of the slants, but it sure makes it easy to turn the engine over with maximum control.

Jerry

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There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

Exactly what I was thinking. The bolt it shall be...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

It's not missing...it wasn't installed on most of them, 'cause except for convenience in servicing, it's not needed. The crank pulley is an interference fit on the crank.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

And if you have one, and not have the spacer behind the fan, it can
be a bit tight between the fan and the bolt.

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Lasse

Signet -66 225
Holley 600 Offy-5270 Dutra Dual,regrind. cam 272 0,420 110, head shaved 0.100 slight.ported
MSD6A
A904
7 1/4 3.23