Well than, I guess I will be lookin into the Carb when I pull of the intake to check the Crossover ports For the manifold heat.

I will have to check the Fuel Bowl as well as do a rebuild.


Greg

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Well, I have not yet got around to taking off the intake or Rebuilding the carb on thiroject..

I have put in 2 bottles of the expensive $5.00 Gumout fuel system cleaner, and I also Switched out the Oil from Synthetic to Regular dino Type 10w-30m (as my dad had Suggested).. And now any hesitation and spark plug fouling is gone. - - Still running 87 Gas.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Wow, That is interesting. ONly specualtion as to what did what. But, very interesting. My guess is the fuel system cleaner freed up your needle and seats.

Sam

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I would suspect some oil coming in from the intake valve seals as well. I have seen quite a few engines with deposits on the intake and exhaust valves and plugs like you describe caused mostly by this. Sure the guides are worn too but with good seals they can go some more. They did not smoke. Fuel only should be real sooty, black deposits.

Once it starts, it just get worse as the chamber will not stay clean as the spark and burn degrades.

I would run a couple of good doses of a fuel detergent like redline SI 1 or chevron techron. Full bottle or two to twenty gallons on a couple of tanks. These are the only ones I have used that will actually clean up the valves.

Maybe think about some new umbrella type seals, the originals are likely gone or rock hard on an engine with any kind of age or mileage. It's not a bad job, maybe a few hours.

Since it got allot better with the fuel system cleaner, I would suspect the emulsion tubes were varnished up before. A carb rebuild, one of the detergents noted above and new valve seals will likely make a huge difference and have it running almost like new for a good while.

I would not be too concerned about not having enough heat with headers as long as the cross over passages are open, it is likely they are not, however. Most of the time there is too much heat when they are clear, even without a heat riser valve. It makes the warm up quicker but then it allows too much. I usually restrict the passages to 3/8" on both sides on new performance street builds. You just need to get the choke dialed in a bit closer with less initial heat. The restriction really helps avoid fuel boiling in hot weather or for towing.

YOu're probably right anothersix. I have been at the train convention all week, and not really thinking much about cars. My response was genuine, but not thought about at all. Doing two things at once is what made it kind of a guessing game, but I think your logic is good.

Fuel can foul plugs, but oil is the most likely culprit. My, brand-new-in-Spring of '69 (but Model year '70) Mavrick with a 200 I6 ran great until it wore out the valve guides, which happened in 30K miles of hard driving. After that it was impossible to keep the spark plugs unfouled. I ended up putting those extender, adapter things on to shield the electrode, and it worked better, but the worn guides were asolutely the problem, and oil was the culprit. After 2.5 years the car was ready for major engine work, and I was annoyed enough to trade it on a '72 Duster. I have never wanted another Ford product. In fact until recently, I've never wanted anything much newer than that old Duster.

You are also right about those old valve seals probably being real hard, if they are not broken and cracked already. Often times they just come off in pieces.

Sam

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