I bought a new exhaust manifold (not intake) which is to replace my original that has holes in it. 1960 170 slant six.

Question: how easy is it to remove the old one and bolt the new on on? I have no replacement manifold gasket and was going to have the job done professionally, then thought I'd ask a general opinion. It looks pretty straightforward, but then, I'd have to remove the carbueretor, linkages, etc.

Thanks, in advance.

Evan

If it goes easy they aren't bad. I've never seen one go easy. With a new exhaust mani it should be relatively straight forward since the biggest problem is usually trying to reinstall a warped exhaust manifold. Having a new (I assume you mean brand new in box not used) manifold really eliminates most of the trouble spots like broken bolts and misaligned joints.

You don't have to remove the carburetor, you can leave it parked on the intake manifold. Just disconnect the fuel line, distributor vacuum line, throttle rod and choke rod (remove the choke thermostat from the exhaust manifold).

Some extra time and effort spent now will save you a great deal of hassle later:

The biggest potential source of strife here is old, fatigued manifold-to-head mounting studs. You stand a medium-good chance of twisting off at least one of them. Fixing it is doable, but a pain. If you are fortunate enough to remove the manifolds without losing any of the studs, do yourself a big favour and replace all the studs while your luck is good. There are several threads on here about it. Use Dorman number 675-093, with Loctite on the ends going into the engine (these stud holes back up into coolant passages, so drain down the coolant before you remove any studs -- then use brake cleaner to clean the coolant out of the stud holes and let 'em dry before you install the Loctited new studs). See Here.

The top-front and top-rear use a special cone nut, see here, while the others use plain nuts. I replace these with brass, for future removal ease. Appropriate brass nut is Dorman 849-001.

Other factors? Well, use a well-made manifold gasket set. It is worth your while to spend the extra time and efffort to get the good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head and the intake-to-exhaust (heat riser/hotbox) junctions. They really are much better than the locally-available parts store items.

And your 1960-style choke thermostat won't work correctly with the late-style exhaust manifold, so you may want to change to an electric choke kit

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan-

I was just looking over my new exhaust manifold tonight, comparing it against the original (still on the car). Why will the old choke mechanism not work? It looks to be positioned in exactly the same spot, plus the new manifold has the correct positioning holes for the choke to set on.

Please let me know. I was planning on bringing the car to my mechanic tomorrow to have him install it and save me the hassle.

Thanks!

Yes, the choke "well" is in the same place, but take a look at the casting itself: The 'rear wall' (closest to the car's firewall when the manifold is installed) of the well is missing from the new manifold, while the well is completely closed both front and back on your '60 item. You could bolt the '60 choke onto the new manifold (using one hole or the other; they're spaced a little differently on the new manifold) but that open rear wall would cause the choke to stay cold/closed too long, and you'd waste a lot gasoline.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

thanks. I wish I could have seen that before I ordered the new one. Hmmm... I'll figure something out here.

if the '60 manifold is like the later ones, be very careful with the long bolts that attach the intake to the exhaust manifold. the one closest to the cylinder head comes to mind (sometimes it's a stud.) they are long and kinda thin and have a tendency to break (at least for me .) soak with penetrant if you can. i have tried to get replacements from local hardware stores and they can be a little tough to find the exact length. also, when you go to bolt everything back together, assemble those intake and exhaust manifold bolts just snug (with the new gasket in between,) then torque all of the nuts at the cylinder head starting from the center and working your way out to the ends. this will allow the manifolds to move around a bit to seal properly against the head. and make sure you install the end nuts with the rounded side facing the washer (i'm assuming the '60 model has these special nuts.) finally, finish torqueing the three intake/exhaust manifold attaching bolts to spec. continue with the rest (fuel, exhaust, etc.)

-james

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There is some good info in this article:
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/manifo ... unting.htm

The key to success with getting a replacement Intake - Exhaust manifold set to seal is to carefully align the two manifolds and then resurface the assembled pair's port surface as a set.
DD

Wouldn't've done you too much good; only the later type is available new.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hello Dan, I'm ordering some stuff on Rockauto, my question is : do you know where to get these special cone nuts?
Thanks,

Marc

The cone nuts, unfortunately, were specially made for Chrysler. I don't think they can be had any more.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Too bad... Thanks for your help Dan.