I am starting to assemble another Slant Six engine and figured I would document the process as the engine goes together.

Seeing there is a lot of interest in "Eileen", the stroker SL6 engine build-up, I decided that this engine also needed a name. So based on the fact that this will be a light weight engine with long (thin) 198 con rods, Twiggy came to mind.
(Will this engine be like the thin, light weight super model of the 60's or will this Alm. Block SL6 break like a dry twig if I build to much power into it?)

Naming an engine, or a car for that matter is not something I usually do so this is a "first" for me. This will also be the first long connecting rod Aluminum Block SL6 I have built.

My hope is to show some assembly tips as move thru the build-up. Comments and questions are fine. I will do my best to focus in on SL6 specific details.

So here is where we start.... with the empty engine block.
For you sharp-eyed Slanters, what is different about this Alm. SL6 block??
DD

The side is ribbed and not a solid flat casting. Looks like they were really trying to save weight.

I can't quite see if it sleeved yet or not.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

It has a solid or closed deck.
HyperValiant

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1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

You've closed-up the deck on a late ('62 or '63) aluminum block. Done a nice job of it, too, as it seems. What technique did you use?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

WoW, look at the main caps, and saddles also. Wait a minute, whats going on here? Your camera is lacking ( not putting it down, just hard to see good in the pics), But even the sleeving looks diff.

Is this a new casting maybe?

Jess

Mmmm...what am I missing about the main caps...?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Are they not cast iron instead of aluminum, and two peice.

Jess

What do you mean by "2 piece?" This bottom end of this engine looks just like the one I disassembled a few months ago. Aluminum block, cast iron bearing caps.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Much LESS meat in the lifter bores area (looks very weak), The main strength come from the base of the cylinders where they meet the crankcase. This one looks weak?

Individually shrounded all the way up near deck for two pushrods for each cylinder.

Cleaner interior crankcase.
Closed deck.
Die cast.

Experimential alum 225?

The closed top deck is the big difference with Twiggy. Hopefully that will help stabilize the top deck surface for better head gasket sealing.
We poured in molten aluminum to cast in a deck plate and then welded the seams... the bad news is that the heat & shrink from that process warped the crap out of everything. The main line had to be re-jig bored straight and the cylinders were bored "on centers" and just barely cleaned-up at .045

The other differences are the special ARP main studs with windage tray mounting provisions on the center sets. Historically, it has been hard to mount a windage tray into a Alm. SL6 because of the special main cap bolts. (sorry for the poor lighting on the pics) Here is a close-up on the studs)
http://www.dutra.org/pictures/engine/al ... -in-cl.jpg

The target is a 9 to 1 compression ratio with a "loaded" engine that weighs under 350 lbs.
DD

I thought you're putting on windage tray via this 4 bolts.

Sweet combo. 9.1:1 is not that stressed, I think. Not planning to boost especially with those twig rods?

Cheers, Wizard

That is standard equipment on the aluminum 225.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You need to look into one of Kevin's two piece crank scrapers, in conjunction with the tray.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Nice work, Doug!

How far down did you fill the top of the deck? I assume water will still flow around the liners, unless this is a drag only block?

I have a few Al blocks in stock, and I am very interested in weight reduction for my road race car.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Wow. That's a much more elaborate way to make a closed deck aluminum block than I've ever seen before. I can't wait to see how this one turns out.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair