I tuned up our slant six, wires, plugs, cap, rotor. Went to start it and it cranked a little and stopped. Hasnt cranked since.

So the solenoid was not clicking when we tried to crank it over, so I replaced the solenoid (annoying!). Put it in, the solenoid clicked now, but the starter wouldnt turn over. UGH.

So I pull the old starter and put in a remanufacured one from checker, it came with a new solenoid.

Now that the new starter/solenoid is in, it is back to not clicking...

WTF? Is it possible for a reman'd starter not to have a working/properly installed solenoid. I really dont feel like taking the starter out and apart - AGAIN, I hate installing those brushes.

Any advice? Is it something else?

PS: The battery is brand new and we tried jumping it.

Have you tried jumping the solenoid? You can use a screwdriver, just stick it between the big terminal and the one below it. If it turns over, it is probably related to the neutral safety switch on the transmission. You can bypass for testing by grounding the terminal that connects to the transmission. Not recommended as a solution because you will be able to start the car in gear. The switch is cheap and not hard to replace. If it doesn't turn over, you're losing power somewhere, I'd start with having the battery checked.

Hope this helps,

John

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66 Barracuda 225 auto

Try starting it in Neutral.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

How are the cables and terminal connections?

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Anything is possible with "remans", rebuilds, and even new parts, especially the typical Autostoned and Oh, Really parts store products.

_________________
"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

I've had similar problems in the past with my '64 and it all traced back to the ignition relay, usually located above the starter on the firewall. I've replaced three and finally ended up soldering the sloppy terminals to get a good connection. If you have to jump start it then arc your screwdriver between the big and little stud until it cranks. This is the reason I keep a screwdriver under the hood. Don't forget to set your E-brake since jumping the car this way bypasses your neutral safety switch and running yourself over is bad.

Im going to try that tonight.

However, it doesnt have a NSS, as it's a manual.

But wouldnt this suggest that its either the solenoid, or the relay? (or maybe even the battery)
It's a manual - does this make a difference in slant 6s?
They leave alot to be desired, it is on the "todo" list, but it may jump to the front burner.
I was talking to a buddy whom went through 2 "remaned" alternators before breaking down and buying a new one (which fixed his prob)

That seems like utter BS to me.
Yeah I wonder about the relay, however, when I put my test light on the starter connections, it shows that the solenoid/starter are getting power, which I take to mean as the relay ain't the problem.

This Dodge is possessed. I went out and tried the screwdriver between the solenoid connections to check the starter, starter works.

I get in and slap it in neutral, and BAM it starts. Let it set and try to start it in gear, it starts???


I am beggining to think it has faulty battery wires, the negative has some actual wire exposed. I suppose those can be tepermental.

Sometimes corrosion can get between the battery terminal and the cable clamp. When that happens often you will hear a click and the starter will refuse to turn. The dash and interior lights may be on but dim and they will dim when you hit the key to start. The fix is to clean the connection between the battery terminal and the cable clamp. If the cable end is frayed, with exposed wire, you would be well served to just replace the cable. Replacement cable ends are OK for an emergency but long tern they cause more problems than they solve. Get a good fresh cable with molded and soldered ends.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

That's the plan!

Thanks for the help guys!!!!1

While not your problem, these vehicles can always use a really good ground from block to frame or body. The woven wire thing is fine, but if you are getting a new battery cable get another shorter one with flat terminals at each end with bolt holes in them. I attached mine to a bellhousing bolt and to firewall. Good grounds cure many faults, electrically...
rock
'64d100

I can see this is an old thread, but the usefulness of this site comes from the search function!!!

I dug this post up because my 65 VAl was clicking instead of cranking when i turned to key.

dakight's post was a bullseye! I bought a new ground cable ($7.99), sanded the battery post and the ground on the engine block to shining metal: Baboom! fired right up.

A good grounding electrical connection solves a myriad of problems!!!