I've been trying to get the A904 tranny I picked up last weekend ready ti install, and I am having trouble. I removed the front seal without too much trouble, but almostnever got the front bushing out. I finally got it out, but I cannot get the new bushing in. Thinking that maybe it was supposed to be done with the front plate out, I removed the six bolts holding the front plate to the tranny case, but I can't get it off either. How do I get the new bushing in this thing? Davey

You really should have a Factory Service Manual (FSM) but here are some tips.

The front pump bushing is staked-in from behind. You will need to remove the front pump assembly (front plate) and dis-assemble the pump to swap-out the bushing.

The front pump removes with a special slide hammer, it uses a 7/16-14 (?) threaded stud that screw into two opposing threaded counter-bore holes in the empty bolt holes. Look closely into the "front plate" bolt holes and you will see the 2 double-threaded holes.

Once the pump is out, split and new bushing installed, the pump sections need to be carefully re-aligned before tighting all the bolts. There is a special sleeve the factory used but a large hose clamp or the empty trans case will also do the job.

There is a large o-ring and a paper gasket that seals the front pump to the case, you will need to replace those parts.

Note: Once that front pump is off, the clutch pack drums and 2nd gear "kick-down" band come right out. It would be a shame to not check the condition of the friction surfaces while the pump is off.
DD

FSM's really help on this kind of thing, but here are some photos in an article on 904's:

904 Rebuild

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Man! Fools rush in where they shouldn't. Had I known that a special tool was required to remove the pump so the bushing could be replaced, I would have left the bushing that was in it alone. I should have asked you all before I plunged ahead. Oh well, I'm committed now because I got the original bushing out and it's got to have one, so I'm going to have to keep going. I don't have this slide hammer...can one be improvised? Also, where can I get the book (shop manual) you spoke of? Davey

Davey
Call Pat Blais aka t Fliite Patty 205 365 1966 or tflitepatty at verizon.net
He is the man.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

It's easy to make a puller for the front pump using two pieces of threaded rod which you thread into the (provided) threaded holes in the pump, nuts, and a metal bar long enough to go across the width of the bellhousing. This, and an internal/external snap ring pliers are usually all the special tools you need to do any repair including complete teardown & overhaul, as long as you are VERY careful about such things as aligning the front pump halves when bolting together, etc., and have strong fingers and/or an assistant Most of the special tools in the FSM were designed for speed & consistency in a factory production-line environment. And use a torque wrench for everything the FSM has a torque specification for; for a few, a motorcycle spoke torque wrench or similar is necessary to be accurate enough at low torque settings.

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1964 Dart 225 1966 Valiant 225
1966 Dart 273 1966 Barracuda 273
1969 Dart 225
'64-170 engine '66-170 engine
(two) 198 crank/rod sets in custom-fitted wooden boxes

wooden motor scooter with hybrid-electric drive

Junk 904 10 dollars A good transmission builder Priceless . Cost About 350 Dollars for rebuild Race it for seven years who is the man.











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