Ive been trying to put this super six setup on for the last month and a half and its just more hassle than what its worth. Im at the point where I don't even think I'll ever be able to get it to run again on my own. Not to mention im probably about $700-800 deep on the project.

Ive put these damn manifolds on 3 times already. First two times with the gaskets from Napa. Last time with the australian gaskets. Ive also had both the manifolds machined together. At first the car was just idling way way too fast. So I sprayed Carb cleaner on the manifold ports and sure enough the engine raced.

Now ive got all the australian gaskets on and its idling slower, but still way too fast for me to drive. When I drop the idling screw to a normal speed, the engine chokes and dies pretty quickly. I don't have a choke coil yet and I havent set the fast idle screw at all. Although ive ran the engine long enough to run at normal operating temperature and it still wont idle down. Ive sprayed the ports and its just so hard for me to tell if theres a vacuum leak. The engine isnt idling quite smooth enough but once in a while the engine will just slightly race when I spray the carb cleaner in there. But its nothing near how it would race at first. Also I can't get it to consistantly race in the same spot unless I damn near flood it with carb cleaner. Ive sprayed up by the head, between the manifolds and where the carb meets the intake and I really don't see how it would be a vacuum leak.

I bought the Carter off of ebay (thought it was new) turns out its a remanufactured job and it came in one of those brown Holley II boxes. I havent done anything to it besides mess with the idle and mixture screws. I didn't want to waste money rebuilding it until I asked here first.

Also when I start the engine, it sometimes backfires and sparks will sometimes shoot out of the carb. If I get it warmed up and idle it really fast, the engine can sort of run smoothly but back at the tail pipe it doesnt sound smooth at all.

Anyway, thats my story and if anyone could help, id really appreciate it. Please don't just post a link to the super six guide because I have followed it and I need help beyond what the articles on this site can give. Im about ready to just give up and take it into a shop.

I PM'd you before reading this! REMAN=Garbage, probley going to have to rebuild. I went through 4 reman carbs before finding one that would run ok.

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Even in moderation i am excessive!

The reman carburetor is a suspect, but there are a lot of other things to check before giving up.

What year vehicle did you install the setup on?

Is your intake manifold made out of aluminum or iron?

What exact carburetor did you get? Did you have a lot of extra vacuum ports to plug off or deal with otherwise?

How thick is your carburetor base gasket? Does it have the correct notches in it to supply vacuum to the right parts of the carb?

Do the throttle plates each have a small hole?

Did you modify, remove, bypass, or alter any emission control or other engine accessory devices or systems when installing the super six setup?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Not all reman carbs are garbage.

There are a few things I would check at this point.

Check your timing...if it is too advanced you can get a high idle.

Make sure your vacuum advance is hooked up to the right port...if it is hooked to mainifold vacuum it will give you advance at an idle. Try disconnecting the vacuum advance and see if it makes a difference.

If you have power brakes make sure that system is not leaking.

Ditto PCV

Make sure the throttle bushings are not worn.....grab the throttle shaft and see if it will move up and down.

Get a vacuum gauge.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

and lastly check that egr valve for leaks
or is some of the vaccum system is hooked
up? check to be sure it is opening at the right time.........
if your not using any emissions stuff, pull it
off and block off that pup.........

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http://imageevent.com/jeffc
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Belveder A318 727 4d
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4spOD
Old iron or no iron

Its on a 71 Duster 225. The intake is cast iron. Im not sure what info is needed for the carb. Its a Carter BBD rebuilt by Holley apparently. Its number 64-1590. Says its for Canadian vehicles, but im not sure if thats a problem or not. The carb gasket is the black 1/2" or so thicker type from Napa. The only deal that is bypassed is the OSAC, but that has been bypassed for a long time without trouble.

The vacuum advance seems to be correct because I don't get a difference in idle when i unhook it. The PCV valve is perfectly fine and the intake has that block off EGR plate deal that's sealed up.

Is that the Holley-II number? Do you still have the box?
Not a problem per se, but what is the specific application it's listed for, by year and engine size?
Good...
No OSAC on a '71 vehicle in the first place, though California '71s had a distributor advance holdoff system. Anyhow, you're right, that doesn't enter into it. How 'bout the carburetor venting system? The '71s use the crankcase as the vapor storage tank, so there's a 5/16" hose from the carburetor's bowl vent to a fitting on the body of the fuel pump. Is it present and correctly hooked up?
There wouldn't be a change in idle either way; no vacuum to the vacuum advance at idle. If you wanted to check the vacuum advance, you'd need to suck on (or apply vacuum to) the vacuum advance hose with the engine idling, and see if the idle speed increases.
OK, have you tried replacing it anyhow? A defective PCV valve can admit too much air and cause uncontrollable idle.
Are you sure the gasket under the blockoff plate is the right way round? If not, you can get a gasket port overlapping two manifold ports, with resultant leak. Also, are there any unused, uncapped vacuum fittings on the carb?

I think you will probably wind up determining the problem is in the carburetor.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

My 72 Duster acted just this way years ago when I rebuilt the carb. It turns out the base gasket supplied with the kit had sucked up into the carb base, and was blocking off the vacuum passages under the carb. I put the old gasket on, and fixed it. Turns out the underside of that carb is really important. At the time, my wife was driving that car to work. Boy did I get a boat load of crap for that one. Wish I still had that car!

For what it's worth, the car pictured in this signature, for five years had the set up on it that you are trying to get to work now. It worked beautifully. It idled nicely, and got great gas mileage. I especially liked the adjustable metering rods. I tried many other two barrels on it, but always came back to the BBD as the most flexible, and easiest to tune. If that carb does not work for you, try another one, or try rebuilding tht one yourself. My carb was just the two barrel that came off the junk car I got the manifold off of, which I then rebuilt.

Sandy's comment about the play around the throttle blade shaft is important. They are prone to wear, and will leak when they are worn.It kind of sounds like maybe your float is too high. If you did rebuild it yourself, you would get an instruction sheet with the rebuild kit which would tell you how to set up the metering rods, float levels, etc, etc.
Sam

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I took the carb into a carb shop and had it rebuilt and had the throttle shaft rebushed. Now there are no vacuum leaks on the outside (checked with carb cleaner) yet I still can't get it to idle under 1200.

Got fed up with it and took it into a shop and they said the needle valve was open and gas was just flowing all over. They also said the manifolds were sealed up fine and it wasnt sucking any air in there.

So I took it back down to the carb shop that rebuilt it and they checked it on their machine all day and said not once could they get it to flood. They said they don't know why the other shop said it was flooding unless a piece of dirt just got caught in there and kept it open.

This weekend project has turned into 2 or 3 months of just straight BS. I have no idea why this thing wont idle. I doubt that the flooding even has anything to do with it. It has to be sucking in extra air from somewhere....

Does anyone live near this guy to help him out?

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Hope this maybe can help, http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/article/a ... ?id=277064

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Lasse

Signet -66 225
Holley 600 Offy-5270 Dutra Dual,regrind. cam 272 0,420 110, head shaved 0.100 slight.ported
MSD6A
A904
7 1/4 3.23

Proceed carefully. The BBDs used on AMCs and Jeeps contain significant design differences, particularly in the idle system, compared to the ones used on Chrysler products. Also, the Jeep symptom mentioned in that article is that the engine stalls out at idle. This doesn't seem to be the same issue ESP47 is having; his engine is idling too fast, probably due to a carburetor fault or vacuum leak.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

It won't die if I have it at a high enough rpm in park. But as soon as I put it into gear it dies. Im going to go take a look and see if I have the problem explained in the jeep article. Thanks.

Oh Dan, on the egr blockoff plate, the gasket under it doesn't line up with the two holes in the intake all the way. They arent overlapping at all but id say the holes are shifted to the side about 1/8th-1/4th of an inch. That should'nt cause a vacuum leak right? I should probably just take it off and make a gasket by hand to make sure.

High temp RTV will seal without making a gasket. I've read sometimes you can get a hole burned through the aluminum plenum floor by the exhaust.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Well I took it into the shop and they sorta figured out the problem. Apparently the distributor had an internal problem with the advance mechanism where it would go 20 or so degrees advanced or retarded if turned only very slightly. Actually a guy from this board came over and helped me out a couple weeks ago and we ran into this very same problem. He had to take the distributor out and adjust it by the bolt under the distributor because we couldnt get it to line up with the plate. Well to make a long story short, we had it timed real close, the only problem was that we were going off of the wrong mark!

So now the car runs, but it still feels like its running a bit too fast, at least in park. When im stopped at a light and in gear, the engine almost seems like its stumbling a little bit, but not in rhythm or anything. They also had to put a bigger throttle return spring on because they said the throttle almost felt like it was sticking. Well maybe it wasnt big enough because I can get up to 40 and coast a long long ways only dropping to 35 or so as long as im not going up hill.