No, they are talking about the 198 connecting rods.

Reat DOUG'S ARTICLE on stroking the slant six, especially toward the end about "A NON-STROKER "STROKER", THE "LONG ROD" 225

I don't think most are using this approach. Finding the right pieces can be tough, compared to standard 225 stuff.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

oh, how dumb of me thats what i was thinking but i wanted to make sure.
Tell me if i'm correct so when i go for the engine swap during the 225 rebuild i could just take the connecting rods out my current engine which just so happens to be a 198 slant six and bolt them right in the 225 engine crankshaft with no problems or anything?
Why are the 198 rods longer than the 225 that makes me curious considering the rod ratio of the slant six's are
170:1.83"
198:1.92"
225:1.62"
now why does the 225 have the smallest rod ratio?

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Welcome to this wild and wacky hobby. The numbers you have listed are the rod lengths, not ratio; that is something entirely different. A longer stroke engine, all other things being equal, will have shorter rods because more of the distance between the centerline of the crank and the top of the bore is taken up by the longer throw of the crank. If the stroke is 1/2" longer, for example, then the crank throw will be that much longer and the rod the same amount shorter so that the total distance is the same, The long rod 225 works because you use a different piston which places the piston wrist pin higher in the bore.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

The numbers above are rod ratios, the SL6 con rod center to center lengths are:
170 = 5.7"
198 = 7.0"
225 = 6.7" (All numbers "rounded")

Rod ratio is a simple calculation, con rod "c to c" length divided by stroke.
Long stroke engines tend to have shorter con rods and therefore lower rod ratios.
DD

Oops... I hadn't had my second cup of coffee yet. I stand (sit) corrected.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Hey, this is the place to ask!

We've all had brain ... errr ... burps when thinking about this kind of thing.
You'll need pistons with shorter compression height, like the 2.2 turbo used. You'll have to be careful about deck height, head gasket, etc, to keep compression reasonable for whatever you plan to do with the car.
Because it has a longer stroke than the 198, in the same block, with the same pistons. Half the stroke, plus the rod length, plus piston height needs to fit in about the same crank centerline to deck distance.
See above, and remember that the 170 uses a shorter block and a shorter stroke.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Oh ok thanks for clearing stuff up fellas.
So if I end up going with the 198 rod 225 engine i'm limited to those 2.2turbo pistons? what kind of compression ration am i lookin at if i have those pistons and head milled .100 will it be to high for the street?(i'm hoping for something around 10 or 10.5cr.)
Thanks, Kevin
Oh p.s. do you think something is wrong with my 904 it has a pretty huge hesitation from 2 to 3rd floored and not (something to do with my downshift linkage not hooked up?)
AND anyone know why my alternator or pulley is flippin out i'll be normally driving and my alternator needle will be normal and without doing anything like giving the car gas the needle will go through the roof and my lights get real bright and kinda drags on the car looses some pep while it's doing that.

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IIRC, not connecting your kickdown linkage leads to a quick death for any Torqueflite transmission.

Alternator - your voltage regulator might be bad, or have a shorted intermittent contact. It is going "full field".

As mentioned above, you need to hook up your trans kickdown linkage, OR tie it back about halfway (the lever on top left of the trans case) for temporary use.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Well technically the kickdown linkage isn't hanging i made a new bracket b/c i was gonna hook it up but it started raining so all i rly need to do is make another lever thing to hook to the carb when i mash the go button so it'll work.
And as for the alternator problem it's like (example) i'll be driving say 1/4 throttle just cruisn not moving my foot then i'll hear the rpms drop very slightly and feel the car kinda lose a couple mph as if the belt is robbing more horsepower then i look at the alternator needle and it will be burried 40+ it'll stay like that for a bit then go back to normal and then happens again on a regular basis while driving.OH and the lights will get real bright when it's burried so it can't just be a bad gauge.

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