My 65 225 slant camshaft has about a 3/16 end play. Is this OK?

After removing the head and by rotating the distributor rotor, I can see the cam shifting back and forth thru the oil gallery drain holes.

My 65 service manual indicates the cam end thrust is taken by the block but lists no allowable end play. The same manual gives about .010 end play allowed for a V8.

I posted a similiar question on Thursday however the response and the posting seem to be deleted? Below is the link that was sent to my Email that doesn't work for the Thursday request.


http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=147582#147582

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/

Try this link to an old thread, with Doc's cam stop fix...this is a must have insurance item...


http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... cam+button

If the cam has too much play (like 3/16") it will smack back and forth in the bearings and if you degreed in your camshaft it can have a detremental effect on keeping the bushing in place...(been there done that, lucky it died 1 block away...).

-D.Idiot


Actually maybe you were looking for this one:

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... highlight=

DusterIdiot & all. Thanks for the reply. My concern apparently is well justified.

Do you think I can pull the timing cover with the radiator removed?

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/

It's definately easier with no radiator, but can be done otherwise...

One challenge that may pop up after pulling and modifying the cover, is getting the cover back into place and getting the new seal to seal properly.
You may have to look back and see Doc about some cheats on sealing the cover properly with the oil pan in place.

Good luck, it's a mod that's worth the headache now vs. what could happen later...

-D.Idiot

DusterIdiot
I have the oil pan off already since I changed the rings & rod bearings on this low mileage, 53k, engine. Although the oil gallery & crankcase area is spottless, plenty of sludge in the oil pan was removed at the same time as well as a significant amount of carbon built up under the rings. The rod bearings were gouged. I assume the sole owner, a polio victim (brake & gas & high beam operated by lever, spinner used on steering wheel), could only manage to control the car by driving slowly in town since the car only averaged 1500 miles/year & the car might have sat for extended period of time which aggrevated startup wear on the bearings. The good news is that the bores only showed .001 wear top to bottom.

I took the grill, bumper, valence, & hood latch brackets off in just a couple of hours & pulled the vibration damper. Since the valence was dented & needed staightening and the bumper was bent & needed replacing it was not an extra step. Apparently the 85 year old gal spent her last few years feeling her way into a parking place!!

Maybe I should bolt the timing cover back on the engine(after I make everything oil free) when I do the welding to help keep it from warping.

While I'm there, a new timing belt & gears is a no brainor.

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/