well the time has come to install the engine/tranny in my '66 dodge dart. The engine is assembled, except for the valve cover and intake and exhaust. THe transmission is ready to be installed also.
My question is this:

do I install the transmission first, or together with the engine?
How do I attach my cherry picker and chains to the slant?
if I do it one at a time, will that be easier?

Please tell me of your experiences and anything you guys learned that will be valuable for me to know, any tricks and/or secrets.

Thanks, also still working on the damper pulley bolt issue.

Caesar

I like having the engine and transmission in 1 piece when installing in the car.
There are 2 bolt holes on top of the head, close to the valve cover, those are nice to bolt a chain to, and balance things ok.

Caesar, from my experience I'd say it's usually easier/better to install as a unit,certainly should be easier than trying to install trans THEN motor.If not all as a unit then usually easier,motor first,then trans.All assuming "backyard" or garage with minimal hoisting/lifting capabilities.Be careful,ESPECIALLY if working alone.

What kind of car is the engine going in?

If it's a second generation A body (63-66) it's not possible to install the engine and transmission together unless you are able to position the body high off the ground.

The necessary angles to come in from the top are too great to leave the car on its tires.

To come in from the bottom requires the body high enough to clear the engine.

I've just found it easier to drop the engine in with the car on it's own wheels, and then put the car on jack stands to install the transmission. No big deal.

--Walt Jackson

i have a cherry picker with 2ton capacity.
I know the holes you are speaking about that are right next to the valve cover.
So if I do it as a unit the car has to be VERY high off the ground? How high are we talking about?
When i removed the engine I pulled it out first and then the transmission. I was thinking it would be easier as a unit since I would be able to install the torque converter much easier with the parts out of the car.

I have 4 jack stands that are real sturdy, 3 hyddraulic jacks and two car ramps.

Thanks ahead of time.
Caesar

I have not done this in a pre -67, but I would guess having the rearend on your jackstands would do the trick, and might make the radiator support a tad lower too???

Hi Caesar, I haven't installed a \6w/trans as a unit in an "A" body,but I have done a V8 w/trans in an "A"body, '66 B'cuda. slant is definately longer,but I don't think car has to be all that much higher. I'd say high enough to "comfortably" get under to do required work would be enough. Keep an eye on your angles and do NOT get in a hurry.(bind)

heh,I agree with "rust collector" !

I can't speak to an early A-body, but when I installed the engine/tranny as a unit in my '72, I did the opposite of these guys. I raised the REAR as high as I could to give me a better angle. Worked great! MY issue was the place where I attached the hoist. I used the same bolt holes as everybody else, but even dressed with a cast iron inatke and dutra duals, it hung sideways (towards the distributor). We had a hard time getting the motor mounts to drop together. Next time I might try removing the valave cover and moving the brackets so they hang further over the cylinder head, so it might balance better.

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vm

Definately get the front as low as possible and still be able to get the work done.Rear well could be higher than front . No one said otherwise.

On the 63-66 a-bodies, it's almost impossible to install engine and automatic transmission as a unit without bumping into & damaging something. Pulling them out together is practical if you intend on scrapping the rest of the car. I say follow the factory service manual procedure which is: when removing, transmission first, then engine. When installing, engine first then transmission. Bolt a closed-end wrench to the transmission bell housing as shown in the FSM to keep the torque converter from falling out. The factory had it easy, because they could drop the engine/transmission bolted-together unit onto the K-frame, then they lowered the body onto that whole assembly.

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1964 Dart 225 1966 Valiant 225
1966 Dart 273 1966 Barracuda 273
1969 Dart 225
'64-170 engine '66-170 engine
(two) 198 crank/rod sets in custom-fitted wooden boxes

wooden motor scooter with hybrid-electric drive

I removed the engine and left the trans using a piece of wood across the inner fenders and wire to support the trans. I installed the engine back with the trans still in the car. Took the hood off and the radiator out though. I installed the manifolds while the engine was on the stand since I had never installed a set of inline manifolds before. Right or wrong, it worked.

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'63 Valiant V200 Convertible
225 Aluminum Block

Hey Caesar, good deal, whatever works. More than one way to slant,er,skin a cat.

I will be putting the engine in first with the car onthe wheels, then raising the back and front of the car and sliding the tranny underneath and raising it to meet the shaft and engine. That is how we were thinking about doing it earlier, plus wont have as much weight to balance.

Caesar