Anyone use one of these things?

http://www.ssbrakes.com/products/detail ... &year=1965

Looks kinda cool, but naturally a little pricey. Prop valve kits seem to be anywhere between $30 for a cheapo Summit one to over $80 for a brand-name piece. Seems like it might solve the problem of hacking in to your f-r brake line armor.

Found the SSBC one while trying to track down a distribution block to convert to dual master cylinder. Prices for repro blocks are all over the map, from $35-$85. $35 was from Year One of all places, which actually seems like a good deal.

Greg

summit version, with brake light sensor, a bit cheaper more features
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

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63 valiant v200 Wagon 9.5, Schneider cam, E.I. 22 mpg all day

Why do you need a distribution block?

Just unscrew the line for the rear brakes from the block on the car, plug the hole, and add an extension to the line for the rear brakes so it reaches the master cylinder. If you needed a proportioning valve, you could add it between the existing tube and the extension.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

Thanks for the replies and the heads up on the Summit valve.

It's true, you don't actually need a new junction block. It's really just a slick new part to go along with the rest of the slick new parts.

Everything else is going to be replaced, why keep that crusty old block? Yes, it's not a part that wears, but it is 'single pot' technology. The factory changed the block when they went to the dual MC. Why use something designed for a different system?

Here's a link to the mod DionR was referring to. Scroll down a bit to the pics:

http://www.earlycuda.org/tech/dualmaster.htm


Greg

I'm pretty sure those parts are all made by the same factory. Who knows, there may be one place here that builds them but doubtful. My brother-in-law is in charge of the marketing department for a major importer of these parts. They sell to places like Master Power, SSBC and various other hot-rod type parts places. Your best bet would be to forget about the name that's attached to the part and look at the price.

-James

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I'm not sure about that block, but a lot of the parts do have a common source. I have a Summit prop valve, and if you look closely you can find some of the Wilwood markings on it.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Yeah, they are identical as far as I can tell. The only difference I can discern is that if it says SSBC on it, it's $125 and if it says Summit on it, it's $109. :shrug:

Still, looks like a cool part, I'm getting it.

Greg

Keep in mind that you won't have any brake system warning light with that block. The ones that have a switch are for brake lights on rods.

If you keep the stock block the only new lines you need are a couple of short ones to an inline prop valve and residual pressure valve.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I would actually be gaining a brake warning switch.

I only gots a single pot MC...

The switch on these units is not for a warning light; it is to replace your stock brake light switch if you choose to use it. Personally I would prefer the stock switch for that purpose because it will turn on a little bit sooner if it's adjusted properly.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Yes, that is true. I went back to read the description for the part and it is in fact a switch for the rear brake lights. The brake light switch is not necessary for my application since naturally, I already have one.

What I thought "brake system warning light" was being referred to is usually a pressure differential switch that when closed, grounds a circuit and lights up an indicator lamp on your instrument cluster to let you know your brakes are toast. As far as I know, I don't have one of those since I presently have a single-circuit system.

Still, I just like the fact that you accomplish brake line mounting and proportioning in one part.

Perhaps there is a way to use the switch for a fancy third brake light. Just a thought.

Greg

I find it pretty easy to tell when my brakes are toast, lots of screaming, careening.

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Excuse me, does this smell like chloroform to you?