This time the president has shot Cheney in the face.
The transmission is leaking from the front around the torque converter. It hard to say where exactly its coming from without removing the trans from the engine. It dosen't leak with gentle driving but if you beat on it, it leaks a 12 diameter pool.
Seeing as the engine is coming out for some corrective measures, this seems like the logical time to address the transmission issue(s). I plan to swap in the late model input shaft (large) and pump. While I at it I'll just overhaul the whole thing and swap to the lower first gear. I have ordered a new converter from Midwest and it should stall at 3200 rpm. It will have a mid range torque multiplier so it should be good on the street also.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

My guess is you cracked the pump drive hub on the converter. Been there, done that. Midwest will make you something that will last with the alloy hub.

3200 should be a big step up from the 2500 you have in there now.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Lou, Is this What you mean??

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... =converter

It Was cracked at some point before it broke off.

There wer never any leaks with this converter / Trans Combo _ Even after the Brekage.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

If it completely sheard off like that, it will make a big racket. Been there, done that. Mine didn't leak either.

Happend to my Edge Racing converter after some time (pic here). Sent it back and Andre built it with a chromemoly hub, so far so good.

Yes Pierre, Thats' What happened to me... and Lots of noise too!

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Getting ready to pull the motor and noticed more fluid on the ground.
5-7 days ago I ran the car hard and had trans fluid appear on the ground under the converter for the first time. Started the car, backed it up and cleaned up the fluid and pulled the car back forward. I have not started the car since. Since then there has been no fluid on the ground. Not a drop. Yesterday I find a huge puddle on the ground. Keep in mind I haven't started the car for days. This seems odd to me. No fluid, no fluid, no fluid, huge puddle. Can someone explain this strange occurance? The trans is getting overhauled so its not worrying me to much, but it got me wondering how this can be.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

If the pump bushing has a worn spot in it, it can let the converter drain back which in turn allows the trans to leak out the shifter seal. The oil will be on the ground under the bellhousing area. Trans will also take a while to shift into gear first time of the day.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

The transmission is at the trans shop for upgrades. It will be getting a new pump and large input shaft to match my new 3200 stall converter from Midwest. It's also getting the 999 wide ratio gears with the steel planet cage. Its first and second gears will be lower. I can't remember exactly but its either 2.77 or 2.75. I haven't heard of the lower 2nd gear until about a week ago but he says that the 2nd will be lower as a product of the 1st. I think he said 1.54. Also will be putting in as many steels and frictions as will fit. Also longer ratio band levers for more holding power.

5800 rpm in 2nd should run about 81-82mph. 3rd for a few more feet to the finish line.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

There is a seal in the filler tube that can leak. As was mentioned, it takes awhile for the fluid all to get back down into the pan.

I think the upgrades you are doing are great. But, don;t forget that dip stick O ring. That is something they likely will not look at when they rebuild it. I don;t honestly think tht is the problem, but it could be, and you don;t want to overlook it.

Sam

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Whatever you do, do not let them put the 5.0 KD lever in. It will cause overlap and can possibly bend the strut.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

With a slant six, and good quality bands, I don't feel a change in KD lever ratio is neccessary. But, in any case, do not use the 5.0 lever.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Are you talking about the kick down lever on the outside of the case? The one that the Lokar cable hooks to?

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

no they mean the "shoe" that rides the band inside the transmission. There's an infamous "fast ratio" lever (do a search on ebay and you'll see)

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

This is the lever we are refering to. You will see many references to a 5.0-1 KD lever. That was for the "Hemi". It does give more band holding power, but also takes longer to apply and release the band. The extra leverage, also has a tendency to break struts and band anchoirs. There are several different ratio levers, depending on the torque requirements of the trans. The ratio is stamped into the lever, for identification. I would use the lever that is in the trans, the clutch drum, and planataries come from.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I may have missed this but will ask anyway.

Will you build a special "big spline" converter with the small pilot hub or does your engine already have the big hub (68 & later) crankshaft with the large counter bore?
DD