Driving back to the base from our squadron picnic, my engine quit on me. It's got fuel so I know it's not the fuel pump. It'll crank like normal, but won't light off at all. I have a feeling that the distributor rotor (or something in the cap) may have broken, or maybe even the drive gear (I really hope not), but do you guys have any other thoughts on what may have happened to make it just die while cruising along at 40 MPH? I'm getting my tools together right now, along with a new cap and rotor (I really need to get the better quality ones, ugh) so I can go out and try to get it running. Just fishing for some other ideas on what else I may want to check.

Thank God I have a second vehicle...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

You've got fuel, you've got air, and you've got compression...that leaves you needing spark at the right time, and the valves opening at the right time. I agree your problem is likely electrical. Start by popping the cap and checking that the rotor turns when you crank the engine (or even just when you drag the engine around via the fan and fan belt). If that's OK, check for actual spark. If that's not OK, start working backwards! Coil...wiring...ignition module...ignition switch...

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

ballast resistor?

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63 valiant v200 Wagon 9.5, Schneider cam, E.I. 22 mpg all day

No, it is not the ballast resistor.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hope and pray you don't suffer the same fate I did back in 1990 with my '65 Belvedere 318 with 288,000 miles. I was cruising at 55 MPH when it died and wouldn't start.

Found out that it sucked a valve through the #8 piston (said piston now relegated to the role of a desktop paperweight). The reason I offer this is because there was not a single sound (a la mechanical banging of metal to metal) when the event occurred. The car just silently stopped running.

However, take heart. Even though the old 318 is a mighty motor, the Slant is even more robust. Here's to hoping that you have a simple problem like a sheared distributor gear.

In your glove box under the registration and insurance card, buried under the gas mileage log and old reciepts... you should always carry 1 ballast resistor, 1 new EI module, and 1 standard rotor...

While on the side of the road, I'd have pulled the dist cap first, and checked to see if 1) the rotor is still intact, and 2) if your girl cranks the ignition- the rotor is actually moving (or put a remote starter switch set in your tool box)...

-D.Idiot

(you put in a new timing chain when you got the car...right?!?!?)

That I did not. It's on the list, but I hadn't gotten around to ordering one yet. I just now got it towed back to the base, so Monday (I work this weekend, or else tomorrow I would be tearing into it) I'll pull the valve cover and see if they still move. I'd be happy if I can find something I can fix in a parking lot.

I don't have a ballast resistor, but I found a source for some MO-3000 rotors and I'll order the correct distributor cap as well. On that note, my current cap and rotor are undamaged, and the rotor turns when I crank the engine (and also has no freeplay either).

Well I can now say that both of my vehicles have broken down on me once, though I blame my own dumb ass for getting stranded in my Toyota...

Edit: if it is in fact the timing chain that took a dump, is Cloyes still considered one of the better ones to get?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Pull the cap and crank it. Thats the easiest and provides the most info.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Yep, already did that. Looked just fine there

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

If the rotor is turning when you crank, then dizzy gear and timing chain should be fine, they wouldn't turn if the chain/gear was wiped out. I'd try another electroinc box first, then coil. At least we are getting closer....after those, wiring connections at the firewall are next in line.

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There are 3 things that will live forever, cockroaches, Keith Richards, and Slant Six Dusters !!!

http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/slantasaurus/

take a look around

Oh yeah, good point. That didn't even enter my head that they're driven by a gear on the camshaft. I'll try to find me a basic spark tester and see if I've got spark. I'll be pissed if something in the ignition died so soon, since the HEI module and the coil (MSD Blaster 2) were brand new when installed.

Now on the offchance that it IS a mechanical problem, wouldn't the engine still (barely) run if I had in fact sucked a valve? I had since adjusted my valves to 0.012 and 0.022 and they're still whisper quiet, after running about a tank and a half of gas with them at .01 and .02 and wondering if they were way too tight at that setting. What are the odds that running that long could have damaged a valve?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

He'll then have to rock it back and forth to make sure... The Mopar EI in good working order is kind of 'finicky' on even a slightly loose timing chain. I had the '67 working fine on points, switched to EI and it wouldn't run for crap, pulled the timing chain and replaced, then 'bingo' everything is good...(until the 300K slant said 'time for a rebuild I'm tired'...)

The new Cloyes regular chains are fine but not the best in materials, the new Melling units are all steel units, but the new one I got a month back has a 'slot' carved in the gear instead of a hole for the cam pin to go...recently went to size it up and found the gear was retarded 8 degrees...pulled my last MP Roller Set set off the shelf and used it, instead... Guess I gotta get a Rollmaster set to replace the spare MP set 'just in case' (for the $120, they are a reallly nice unit...but I can't justify the use of one on a high miler stocker...)


Now seeing that he's using the HEI setup, I'd swap a known working coil in and see if the MSD gave up the ghost or maybe you just have a loose connection... (or maybe the HEI module gave up the ghost...my GM buddy SEZ always give it a good heat sink...)

good luck on the post mortem,

-D.Idiot

Is there really any good method to testing the distributor's pickup, or the HEI unit before spending money to swap in new parts?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Use a multi-meter and see if there is any resistance, if not (shows none it is open), then replace it. They are only $10 or $12.00.

You might want to keep a spare HEI around just in case that one is bad.
Another thing, you may have lost the ground connection.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Yeah , pull it, stick the multi meter probes in/on each side of the plug...roll the shaft and watch the multimeter (set to ohms for resisitance if I remember right), a good pickup is supposed to read from 150 to 450 and back again as the teeth pass the pickup...

-D.Idiot