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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 8:28 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Hi,
I’m sure this question has been asked numerous times before but I hope I could get some directions from you all. I’m looking into starting a mild engine build next month and I need to know what parts and machine work will help me meet my goal of a nice street/strip engine build.

My Specs:
• 85’ dodge D100
• Original lean burn /6 (lean burn system removed)
• A833OD
• 3:55 rears
• Weight 3700 lbs (?)

Available:
• $2,500 budget
• (1) 72’ /6 complete
• (1) Late 70’s /6 (long block)
• Professional machine shop that specializes in high performance builds
• Salvage yard with large number of slant parts

Goal:
• 200 HP build if budget will allow
• Street/strip weekend cruiser

Future Plans:
• 150 nitro shot
• 3:90 rears

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85' D100
225cid
A833OD


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 8:42 am 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
200 horse is relatively easy.

They key will be to get a good flowing head with some bigger valves put in. A lot of porting is not needed, and valve size should stay in the 1.7/1.5 range for intake and exhaust. Pocket porting the bowls is about all that is really needed. Toss on a set of 340 replacement springs and you're good. Use a set of RAS rebuilt rockers and make sure to clearance tham for the valve springs.

Mill the block and head to get the compression into the 9-1 range.

Use a camshaft with around .460"-.480" lift. Since you have a stick, you can go even bigger on the cam w/out too much worry.

Offy intake with a vacuum secondary 390 Holley is my favorite.

Put on an MSD6-AL since you are going to hose it. That makes it a lot easier to keep it lit on spray and keeps bad thinsg from happening.

Since you have a stick, make sure to put a window switch in the system in case you miss a shift. You will be amazed at how fast a motor revs on spray.

Headers or Dutra Duals.

If you are planning on hitting it with the hose, get the absolutely best clutch you can get.

If this combination tuned up on a 150 shot won't make 350 horse, I'll lick the cat's litter box clean.

Be very careful with a shop that specializes in high performance work. The natural inclination is to build a Slant just like a small block and that is not necessarily good. With a Slant, bigger is not always better. :shock:

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 9:49 am 
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Location: Orlando, FL
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Since you have a stick, make sure to put a window switch in the system in case you miss a shift. You will be amazed at how fast a motor revs on spray.
tell me more about this window switch. How dose it work? I am assuming the rev limiter on the 6AL box won't hold it.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 9:53 am 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Quote:
Quote:
Since you have a stick, make sure to put a window switch in the system in case you miss a shift. You will be amazed at how fast a motor revs on spray.
tell me more about this window switch. How dose it work? I am assuming the rev limiter on the 6AL box won't hold it.
It is just a switch that shuts the nitrous off at a set RPM. You do not want to run a spray motor against a rev limiter, trust me on that. :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 9:55 am 
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Location: Orlando, FL
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I don't trust you. :D
Tell me what happens. :?:

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 9:59 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
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Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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Quote:

It is just a switch that shuts the nitrous off at a set RPM. You do not want to run a spray motor against a rev limiter, trust me on that. :lol: :lol:
Why sould I trust you? I want to see proof. Talk is cheap. :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 10:08 am 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
I don't have pictures, but I can tell you that it will make a huge "BANG" and a cloud of smoke that will bring out the track crew thinking you just blew up. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

If you hit it against a 2-step on the starting line it will make the guy running the tree poop too. :twisted: :twisted:

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 10:26 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Quote:
200 horse is relatively easy.

They key will be to get a good flowing head with some bigger valves put in. A lot of porting is not needed, and valve size should stay in the 1.7/1.5 range for intake and exhaust. Pocket porting the bowls is about all that is really needed. Toss on a set of 340 replacement springs and you're good. Use a set of RAS rebuilt rockers and make sure to clearance tham for the valve springs.
I was planning on Porting and polishing the head. Times not an issue so I could do it myself.
Quote:
Mill the block and head to get the compression into the 9-1 range.
The machine work was going to include; blue printing and balancing, and decking the block.
Quote:
Use a camshaft with around .460"-.480" lift. Since you have a stick, you can go even bigger on the cam w/out too much worry.
With the ported head, how much bigger on the cam and how much effect will it have on the performance?
Quote:
Offy intake with a vacuum secondary 390 Holley is my favorite.
Could I go with a 500 and jet it down?
Quote:
If you are planning on hitting it with the hose, get the absolutely best clutch you can get.

Centerforce, nothing less. Also, if I go with the juice later, no more then 150 shot, do I need to go with forged pistons?


Great info, thanks Slantzilla.

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85' D100
225cid
A833OD


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 11:10 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

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It would be best to do the forged pistons, get Vanola's. They have them for the /6.

Jess


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 12:31 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Nweberg, OR
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I did almost exactly what slantzilla said with headwork and came in around $800 dollars for the entire engine. If you got the time price out how much the long rod setup would be for the bottom end (I left mine stock it was a recent 40 over rebuild). Also his cam was just about perfect, I got a custom cam ordered from oregon cams in vancouver with .44 lift at 270 duration. I would hit some more lift cause its just starting to get lopy, and don't be shy on the carb for this build anywhere between 390 and 500 will be great and plan on rejetting a lots of tuning. Also the valves will take a diffrent adjustment with the hotter cam ask around I think I trial and error it, I got the numbers somewhere. NOS is a cool tool but someone already metioned that it's always empty when you need it. Otherwise sounds like a great build, it should be easy to stay on that budget even having the machine shop help you, my last two cents is don't be afraid to do a lot of the work, there was a certain stroker or something someone had built and mu uncle's 408 is the same story lot's of money for an engine that kinda made you feel not satisfied, I loved building my slant despite my protest on six cylinders I learned a ton!


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 3:12 pm 
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Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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It would be best to do the forged pistons, get Vanola's. They have them for the /6.

Jess
Make sure you can get them with pins fitted. Stolen83 got a set. They came without pins, and he had a heck of a time getting new pins. I called Venolia on his behalf, and thay told me they don't have the slant dia pin.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 7:26 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Quote:
Quote:
It would be best to do the forged pistons, get Vanola's. They have them for the /6.

Jess
Make sure you can get them with pins fitted. Stolen83 got a set. They came without pins, and he had a heck of a time getting new pins. I called Venolia on his behalf, and thay told me they don't have the slant dia pin.
Mike gets pistons and pins from Venolia all the time. :?

Highway, porting is not a matter of time, it just isn't necessary.

A 500 will work fine, I just don't like them myself. Many other people use tham and are happy. :D

I always like to run at least .500 lift. With a stick you can probably use even more.

Use forged pistons if you want, but if your tune-up is off they will die like any other piston. :cry:

KB's live long and happy in mine if I stay at 150 horse. Unfortunately, I can't leave well enough alone. :roll:

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 6:25 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Quote:
Highway, porting is not a matter of time, it just isn't necessary.
Slantzilla, could you elaborate a litle more on the porting? I hear a lot of talk about creating more HP with head work; porting, polishing, 3-5 angle valve job....

Thanks

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85' D100
225cid
A833OD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 6:48 pm 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Due to the small bore of the Slant, the port itself will flow good enough to support the power. The key is to open up the valve pocket and install larger valves. Unshrouding the chamber around the intake helps too. Mike J. always does a 5 angle on my stuff. :D

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 7:46 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: Tennessee
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Quote:
KB's live long and happy in mine if I stay at 150 horse. Unfortunately, I can't leave well enough alone. :roll:
Cool, your eating a 150 h.p. shot now? Last I read, you lost a motor at the 125 horse mark. :shock:
Is it hard to control that semi-nucler reaction inside a slant? :wink: :D

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb


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