I will be rebuilding the front end on my 1974 Satellite shortly. The car is driven daily as my main transportation. I like the way the car currently rides but the handling is getting a bit sloppy. Due to the fact that the front end components are 33 y.o. and factory original, I think they all have served there useful life on this car and they need to be replaced. Here is my game plan: new tie rod ends, rebound bumpers, all 4 ball joints and rubber strut rod bushings. I'm intending to use the Moog " problem solver" bushings in the upper control arm and polyurethane lower bushings w/ the greasable lower control arm shafts from Firm Feel. Polyurethane sway bar bushings, K-frame mounting bushings and torsion bar mounting crossmember bushings would round it out. I intend to drop the K member and do some rewelding of the scary looking factory welds. Primary concerns are longevity, durability and silent operation. Thoughts or opinions on my potential choices ? Thank you for your replies..

Sounds like you have everything covered, This will make a major improvement and be better than new. When you contact Firm Feel discuss what up grade steering box you should use. this would be a perfect time for a change while the K frame is out.

I know prices of torsion bars have skyrocketed in the past year or two. but a new set might be a good idea while your at it. dont forget the kyb shocks.

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64' Valiant Signet 5.9, 64' Dart 170 moredoor 3.7, 67' A100 3.7, 00' Dakota SLT 4.7

Don't forget the idler arm and possibly the pitman arm, if it has some
slop. While you are doing a little welding, you might consider boxing
in the lower control arms to stiffen them a bit and remove minor flexing.
Sounds like you've got it fairly well squared away.

Jerry

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There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

Sounds like a great plan. You will feel a huge difference. I agree to check the idler/pitman arms for wear and replace if needed.

I have not used the poly LCA bushings or FF greasable arms, but they should work well.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

In general, do torsion bars wear and change behavior, or is replacement just insurance against breaking? I also am planning on rebuilding my '71 Satellite's front end.

They do not normally wear/fatigue much, but I have heard of a tbar actually breaking only twice out of thousands of Mopars I've come in contact with.

But, you may want to upgrade to bigger bars for crisper handling.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I replaced a broken torsion bar (actually, replaced both) earlier this year but that was in a '68 Chrysler Newport. That thing had to wieght 5000 lbs.!!!

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Chris'
Autobody
Restoration
Service

I've seen them broken, but it is relatively rare.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

If I had to do it again today, I would buy a whole, complete kit from Just Suspensions or ESPO.

The way I did do it was to buy the moog pieces that I needed from Rock Auto, t-bars from ebay, a steering box from a junk yard, and the sway bar from someplace else. It was a kind of a mess, in terms of delivery and order of install. What drove me to this was the hope for quality parts from Moog for the ball joints, bushings, etc. This turned out to be a misplaced assumption. The snazzy Just Suspension brand ball joints look to be much better than what I got from a cheapened, Federal-Mogulized Moog.

I would recommend buying Tom Condran's book, "Performance Handling for Classic Mopars". It has a few problems, but its general formula and message are sound. The last step that I needed was some good advice from Lou, after he drove it for a little bit.

I am calling my suspension and brakes project done today, after having picked up the car for the last time from the alignment shop.

Hope this helps,

Greg

I did the opposite: I used stock rubber LCA bushings, and poly strut rod bushings. Moog Problem solvers on the UCAs. KYBs all around. Pretty good compromise, but the KYBs are a little harsh/choppy over broken pavement.

VM

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vm

Oh yeah, if you have the coin, definitely buy the Edelbrock IAS shocks. They are 2X as much as the KYBs, but handling and especially ride are much better.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

you might want to try the c body tie rod sleeves. when i put a set on my duster it made my steering a lot stiffer. i don't remember the part number but i'm sure if you do a search or some one here can tell you

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I'm not saying it didn't happen, but I'm having a hard time visualising how different tie rod sleeves would change the steering effort.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

they're 11/16 and a lot thinker then the a bodys. they don't bend and are heaver so you can feel the difference in the steering.

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