oops got confused = the 68 is as per US spec red and white. the side markers are amber all round (single wire)

OK, that changes things a little as regards the rear sidemarkers. If you want them to flash, you need to trigger their control relays off the front indicator feed and either the front or rear position lamp feed. If you trigger off the rear brake/indicator wire, the rear sidemarkers'll light up whenever you step on the brake during the daytime, and they'll extinguish whenever you step on the brake at night. Not what is wanted.

If you want to change the '68 over to the Australian type setup with red brake/tail and amber indicator/reverse:

Cut the wire we'll call "1" that runs from the brake lamp switch "A" to the turn signal switch "B".

Your existing brake lamp wires at that point become your rear turn signal (only) wires.

Run a new wire from the brake switch "A" side of the cut wire "1", to the rear of the vehicle to power the brake lamps.

Cut the reversing lamp wire "2" downstream of the reversing lamp switch "C" ("downstream" means between the reverse lamp switch and the reverse lamps), and connect the reverse lamp switch "C" side of the wire "2" to the turn signal switch side "B" of the cut wire "1".

Now you've got some wire-switching to do at the back of the car:

The wire that formerly fed the bright (brake/turn) filament in your red lamps now feeds your rear turn/reverse lamp function in your white lamps, so move that wire accordingly.

Connect one leg of your new brake lamp wire (which you ran from brake lamp switch to rear of car in the third step, above) to the bright-filament socket contact for the red lamp, on each side of the car.

The original wires that fed the reversing lamps will not be used.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I have moved it away after i checked distribution with a Gunsons colourtune

Idling a lot smoother - had a slight pop/mis?

What idling rpm , in and out of gear do you recommend with my setup?

Regards

Fanie

Gunson Colortune is a terrific tool. Bit of a cult-following item here, but throughout the English Commonwealth it's well known.

Kerb idle, I'd shoot for around 700 to 750 in Neutral, 650 to 700 in Drive.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanx -

Got hold of a Equus tacho,- guys also make timing lights - has the same finish as the rest of the Barracuda's dash

Hi - another tuning question

Best timing?

I have a lot of manuals, but they quite often contradict one another, and the forum has been a fantastic help so far.

I salute you all!

I have this nagging suspicion that the outer ring on the balancer has moved slightly - even at tdc I have no pining under hard accelaration, under hot conditions

"No pinking" makes sense, because TDC is well retarded from where the basic timing should be set, which for a configuration like yours is probably around 5° to 7° BTDC. The outer ring (on which is located the timing mark) can slip relative to the hub, and you can check this by finding TDC on #1 (at the actual cylinder) and checking where the mark is.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars