I pulled the Holley single barrel carb off the 225 in my '74 Dart, but it sure doesn't look like the carb that's supposed to come on a '74, least from what I can see on napaonline. The only #s I can find on the carb besides the patent #s is 12R4285B. It looks more like a '73 version than the '74.

So I figured I'd try and find out the year of the block, maybe it's an earlier engine swapped in. The casting # is easy to see - 2806830. All I can find on the web just tells me that's a 225 and there should be a month day and year stamp someplace. Darned if I can find one.

There's a plate screwed on the block towards the back of where the 2806830 # is that has 3420 on it, then back from that is a big capital "AM" cast into the block.

The only other thing I can tell is it's electronic ignition.

I bet I'm going to have a few wiring problems when I get this fuel system figured out!

So anyways, any idea how I determine the year of the block or motor in general?

Thanks!

Frank, lookin to be Dartin around south of Albany NY

The number falls inbetween the 1969-1970 numbers for a Holley 1920, the correct carb for the 1974 is a Holley 1945 (not a great carb, not really setup well that year either)...

I'm trying to remember if you can use the 1973 choke pull off to make that guy work or not...Dan might have your number and cross reference, he's in the know on those guys.


-D.Idiot

I think probably we're looking at the wrong number on the carb. That "12R" number is a Holley casting number, not a carb ID number. Take a look in the close vicinity of where the arrow points in this picture, and see if you find a number that looks like "R1234A", without a 12 in front of it:



The primary hookup differences between a Holley 1920 (used from '62 through '73) and a Holley 1945 ('74+) are that the 1945 has an integral redundant throttle return spring (required safety device starting in '74), a slightly different choke lever, and usually a great many more vacuum nipples than a 1920. The throttle spring issue can be addressed if necessary by adding a second throttle return spring of larger diameter around the outside of the existing small-diameter one hooked to the tab on the choke bracket. The choke lever is a nonissue. The vacuum nipples will be used or plugged, depending on exactly what year the carb and vehicle are, and what emission control systems and devices are installed and functional. No change is needed to the choke pull-off.

Oh yeah, and the 1920 has a side fuel inlet while the 1945 has a front inlet. Makes life slightly difficult unless you do the Fuel line mod.

If you can't find the carb model number as directed, maybe you can show us some good, clear pictures from the front, left side, right side, top, and rear of the carb you're wondering about.

The casting number won't tell us the year of your block. Check carefully at the top of the block, just outboard of the head, below the frontmost spark plug, behind where the alternator bracket bolts to the block. You may have to scrape away grease and dirt to see the stamped numbers.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks for the help guys!

What I have here is (in order) pics from the right side (first one on the motor, second one off), then left, front, and back.

I've been playing around with cars, trucks and boats most of my life. I'm no mechanic, but am a pretty good "parts replacer." I like to think I learn quick, but as I get older, I'm not sure about that... Couple of years ago I built a hot rod from scratch, including building the frame and most all the suspension bracketry, wiring and plumbing the car, etc. I've wanted a classic car for a while, and got a heck of a deal on a nice straight Dart. I'm looking forward to getting it going over the next few months and on the road next year. I'll post a pic or two of it sometime soon.

Thanks again, I sure do appreciate the assistance.

Frank









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Soooo...what'd you find when you looked for the numbers where I showed you?

Without knowing the number, that appears to be a '72 carburetor (it's not a '73; no EGR venturi vacuum tap), installed on the engine of a '74 Dart. It is not installed properly. See that large-diameter hose coming off the bottom of the passenger side of the carb, and plugged with a bolt? That's supposed to go to the PCV valve. I can't see where the other hoses leading off the carb have been connected (or disconnected!) in the engine bay from these photos.

The car itself looks nice and clean/straight! If you will post the exact contents of the fender tag (located on the driver's side inner fender -- a metal plate about 2" by 3" containing letters and numbers) we can decode it and tell you more about your car.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hey Dan!

First of all, that number - is it like on top of that boxy part above the bowl where the hard tube comes out with the flare on the end for a hose? Same area as where you pointed with the arrow in that pic, I'm just trying to figure out better where exactly to look or clean with a brush of some kind, as there is nothing readily visible there

That tube with the bolt in it is supposed to go to the PCV valve, at least I think so. There is a PCV valve in the forward part of the valve cover that is not connected to anything. Why would they leave that unconnected? When I disconnect my PCV vavle from the carb on my '86 GMC truck, it will start, but will not stay running. Maybe it's because with the Dart the bolt is plugging the tube? Still, why would anyone do that? Hmmmmmm....

Where does the EGR venturi vacuum tap come off the '73 carb? Lower front? That's the only thing I thought looked different when I was looking at Dart carbs on www.napaonline.com. Mine surely wasn't the '74, and while it looked like the '73, that one had a tube coming out the bottom front.

I can get the numbers off that fender tag, or at least I seem to remember seeing it there. I'll check when I get home tonight. Also, I'll post some pics of the engine compartment that show more of what's there. I took pics of the carb from every possible perspective before I took it off. These little digital cameras are such a deal!

The car is nice and clean and straight. The interior needs help, the driver's side floor has a hole in it, the trunk rusted out and somebody very poorly put in new sheet metal, and it needs a new tranny (which came with the car), but there is very little rust, and the engine compartment is almost like new. It sat in this guy's garage for many years. Being a 4 door and with the slant 6, he was having troulbe selling it after his teenage daughters informed him they would not drive it, let alone be seen in it. To make a long story short, I got it for $300.

I am workiing on it inbetween my other projects, namely an '86 GMC that is on the road, and a '62 14' PowerCat trimaran tunnel hull speedboat that I have a '63 Merc1000 (inline 6 100 horse outboard) for. The idea is to have the slant six pull the inline 6. I have an original specific Class II hitch for the Dart I got off eBay a while back. The boat is apart right now (I removed the deck to restore/customioze it) with a new transom and I'm working on re-doing the exterior of the hull right now.

Busy, busy. I'll be back at you later tonight.

Thanks!

Frank

It's on the front surface of that boxy part:


Yep! And the curved tube coming out of that boxy part we were just talking about, is supposed to go to the "Bowl" or "Carb" port on your charcoal cannister at the right-front corner of the engine bay.
Other people spoil everything.
Comes straight out the side of the venturi, about ¾ of the way up the carb from the base. Can't recall if it comes out the driver or passenger side on the 1920; think it's off the driver side.
Do not buy a "remanufactured" carburetor from a parts store — any parts store. They're junk. See this thread.

The tube you saw coming off the right front bottom of the '73 carb is a cannister purge tube. This provision is absent on '72 and earlier carbs, but the cannister can still be hooked up correctly by adding a purge valve and a couple of tee connectors. See here
I'm not a father, but if I were, the answer to that kind of spoiled-brat behaviour would be "Grand. We will sell the Dart. Whatever we get for it, minus advertising costs, you may spend on bus passes and/or shoes. You may not have another car unless you buy and insure it yourselves and I approve it."

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You know what they say Dan, a pic is worth a 1000 words, so here goes. By the way, that carb must be a '72 or '73. Once I got the grease off that spot you showed me, it's a 6156 with 0042 above it. I was only looking at carbs on napaonline to match it with mine, not to get one. I want a kit to do this myself.

I think the stuff I copied off that fender palte is correct. I need to do a rubbing.













As you can see, that big tube comes off the top near the carb # and goes to the carbon canister. Of the other two tubes coming off that canister, one goes to a tee that has two short tubes attached, one with a bolt in it, the other with nothing, not attached to anything at all. You can also see the PCV valve with nothing attached.

I was a bit late getting home as just before I left work there was an ad on our local craigslist for 4 '74 Duster wheels for free. I got them, and a nearly new radiator for a '74 slant 6 Duster. Sure looks like the one in my Dart!

Thanks again for all the help.

Frank

Originally for a 1972 225, 49-State + Canada (non-California carb), auto trans.
If the carb's in basically good shape, that'll be a good way to go. Try to get a Walker brand kit, and a new float. Refer above for proper hookup of the charcoal canister...and hook up the PCV valve!

Your fender tag decodes thus (we'll have to wait on the ones marked "?"):

F24 *actually E24*: 225 cubic inch 1bbl 6-cylinder engine
D34: Standard-duty 3-speed Torqueflite automatic trans
L: Dodge Dart
H: High price/trim class
41: 4-door sedan
C: 225 cubic inch 1bbl 105 net horsepower 6-cylinder engine
4: 1974 model year
R: Built at Windsor, Ontario, Canada
121677: Vehicle serial number
KB1: Primary paint code, Powder Blue, PPG Ditzler #2626
L1B6: Trim grade/style/colour: Low price, cloth/vinyl bench seat, medium blue
KB7: Upper door frame paint code, probably dark blue, PPG Ditzler 14642
924: Build date 9/24/1973
254774: Vehicle order number
V1W: Full vinyl roof, white
U: Built to US market specifications
22: 22" wide radiator
F16: 34-amp alternator
G52: Driver side round remote chrome mirror
M21: Roof drip rail mouldings
M25: Wide sill mouldings
M26: Wheel lip mouldings
M38: Deck lid finish panel mouldings
VSX *actually V5X*: bodyside mouldings, w/black protective insert

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

That is absolutely amazing Dan! How the heck do you do that de-coding stuff?!?

Yeah, I'll hook up the pcv valve, but why do I need a carbon canister? I mean, could I remove it with no problems?

The radiator has a fitting with two vacuum like nipples on the left on the engine side of the top tank. What's that for?

These are just tubing questions. Wait until we get to wiring!

Thanks again, take care and have a great evening.

Frank

There are various Mopar fender tag decoders available online. Most of them have some gaps in their databases, so while any of them will get you fairly close, it becomes a matter of being familiar with some codes that are frequently missing from the database, and/or running the data through multiple databases. None of them provides actual paint codes; I get those from the Auto Color Library.
See here and here .
EGR temperature sensor. Your EGR system is already nonoperational, because this carburetor does not support it.


Seriously, before you get to that stage, you will want to buy at least the FSM and possibly the other two books described in this post.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You know Dan, it's kinda funny - here's my 225 rated at 105 hp, and my old '86 GMC with a 305 V8 is also rated from the factory at 105 hp! The little /6 is 80 less cubes and as much power!

I got a carb kit ordered from NAPA (25574), but they don't have a listing for a float. They can get me a new fuel pump, but they don't have one in the Albany area; they'll have to get it out of town. I'll tackle that when I pull the Dart in the garage to swap the tranny and pull the gas tank for cleaning or replacement.

Thanks again for all the help!

Enjoy your day,

Frank