Hi folks,

Today was the proposed first real road test of the 727. Except....vehicle won't move forward or backward. The trans is a V8 guts in a slant six bell casing 727. New torque 2300 stall convertor from Midwest, 80's 727, almost new tranny We pulled pan back off, removed valve body, all is perfect. Pump is working.

Is problem that my trans input shaft somehow is not mating to the part in the torque convertor that spins the stator?

I'm gonna have to pull the tranny again to see what's up, and if the convertor won't mate I reckon I will put in a different input shaft. What is you learned diagnosis not seeing the installation? Oh, kickdown cable and shifter cable are as perfect as my pros could get them too.

Puzzled,
rock
'64d100

Have you done a pressure test?
Are you using the 64 valve body?
bands adjusted?
Fuild lever up? 11+ quarts installed......

_________________
http://imageevent.com/jeffc
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Belveder A318 727 4d
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4spOD
Old iron or no iron

Thanks JeffC,

For the good troubleshooting thoughts. Valve body is that which came in the tranny, not a '64 body because the tranny is a 1980's 727 with the slant bell. So its the late 80's body that came with tranny. It may be almost new, but we still put in new seals. Bands are adusted correctly, and tranny is nearly new as it was used only a short while for dyno testing when new. It was never in a vehicle. Full of new fluid and convertor was primed.

But your point re. pressure tesing...I should've done that and will! I was so shocked it didn't work on first try that I pulled the pan (a new Parts Direct Mopar deep pan) and the valve body for a look, then refilled. and tried again. Although I am getting practiced a tranny swaps, I am not in love with the idea of pullling the tranny again so will sure do that pressure check first!

Thanks!
rock
'64d100

Did you use a filter extension to drop the filter down to the bottom of the new deeper pan?

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

How is the shifter cable linked to the trans?
did you use a kit?

_________________
http://imageevent.com/jeffc
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Belveder A318 727 4d
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4spOD
Old iron or no iron

That really won't make a difference Dan. I run my trans brake trans with no extension. My trans guy says you're better off without it

You don't have a standard converter in a lock-up trans do you? The lock-up trans has a little pilot on the end of the input like a 4 speed trans. I have no clue what happens when you intermingle the two.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Very good point, hadn't thought of the lockup issue.......

_________________
http://imageevent.com/jeffc
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Belveder A318 727 4d
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4spOD
Old iron or no iron

A deeper pan on an engine is for greater capacity(cooling) and making sure you don't suck air, so a lower pickup is needed.

On a tranny the deeper pan is usually just for the capacity and cooling so a lower pickup isn't needed.....


Now, does a tranny ever suck air under G-forces???

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Lockup and nonlockup converters have different spline counts for the inner shaft. If you try to mix up lockup converter on nonlockup trans it will fit but won't sink in all the way. Shop mistakenly built me a lockup converter and when I went to assemble it, it stuck out a fair amount. I don't recall 100% but I think it stuck out far enough to where you wouldn't be able to assemble everything without bending the flexplate abnormally.

Thanks guys for all who did some thinking to help me out!

I had a lockup convertor made by Midwest and the tranny is supposedly a lockup tranny...it has a lockup valve body and the input shaft has the little snout. The symptom is one of spinning fine, just not torquing so it seems to me the shaft is not moving the stator right.

Cable and attachements are from the BPE kit...a really nice piece of work too if you look at their webpage. I had to fabricate carb brackets for the Holley since I have a rod accel. attachment. I have the vehicle on a lift at my "old line" one guy transmission shop where the owner has a lifetime of automatics and loves torqueflites. (In the 60's and 70's he raced from PA to Orlando and once came in 10th at Daytona. He always built his own trannies and now basically builds trannies for short track and drag racers, thus I feel confident in his work of installation and adjustments.)

He is the guy who advised me to get a cooler (Thanks, Ron Parker!) and the Mopar deep pan kit that included the filter extension, new filter and gasket. He was pretty surprised Friday evening when I got ready to do a little road test "Freaky Friday" at the all nite Fayetteville NC dragstrip and we couldn't move from the shop!

It seems maybe the wrong input shaft is in now from what you all are questioning. Reason I suggest this is I got the Midwest invoice and Fred did indeed build a lockup convertor. This looks like a "stay tuned til Monday" deal when we pull it back out. Since everything seems perfect, it will be fun finding out what isn't as it seems and letting you all know!

rock
'64d100

Good luck Rock, hope it's not too serious.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.