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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 10:02 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 2:50 pm
Posts: 1742
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
Car Model:
Simple question, can it be done? If not, how would I be able to figure out exactly where to install the spacers on the joints to achieve the correct caster setting? I'm planning on having the front end lowered 1.5 inches (I don't want it slammed, just lowered enough for a nice stance) and the uppers I'm looking at are the ones sold by Reilly Motorsports here: https://www.reillymotorsports.com/store ... 250&page=1

Also, when I rebuild the suspension, I'm planning on setting it up for fairly aggressive street driving. Would there be any drawback to getting the rod ends (heim joint style) instead of the bushing ends?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

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 Post subject: Tubular upper arms
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 3:05 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 6:38 pm
Posts: 878
Location: Boulder City Nevada
Car Model:
I just went through this on a 73 Cuda using the same arms.
you still use the original cams to align the car. making the arms adjustable gives you more room to play with settings for agressive driving.you will have to shim where the cam bolts go through and all I can say is that you will assemble and disassemble them a few times to get it right where you want it. Hopefully you have a good shop that will allow you to work along with them as it will take about a good 2 hours on the alignment rack.. as far as this goes we drove about 4000 miles on the Hot Rod Power Tour and the car did just fine. make sure that all nuts and bolts are TIGHT. Good luck and take your time.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 4:21 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 7:19 am
Posts: 470
Location: SC
Car Model: 63 Dart 81 D150
Just did this on my 63 Dart. Bushings for the rod-ends came in the box with the arms. I set my arms as the instructions said to start, 1.5 turns out I think. I used the longer spacers in front of all 4 rod-ends, shorts on the rears. I did my alignment where I worked and got it in where I wanted it, without taking the arms off. I am however at the limits of my adjustment with the cams. My camber is a bit excessive, but thats because the front is pretty low and I think it is helping the tires clear the fenders. When I have access to another alignment rack I may take the arms loose and adjust the ends to fix this.

The front end rebuild makes it feel like a whole different car, not to mention the disc brakes. No problems with the arms after about 1200 miles of daily commute.

Just my experience.

Good luck

TopHat


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 3:51 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2007 3:22 pm
Posts: 8
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Car Model:
Would the new magnumforce double adjustable upper control arms make this easier?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:23 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
Car Model:
I got mine from Bigblockdart.com, and I was able to adjust the front end without taking it apart. I did eyeball things in the garage with a level on the rims, and so it was pretty close when it got to the alignment shop. I watched him adjust it, and he got it to about 7 degrees positive caster with just the cam bolts. I know that sounds like alot, but with the power stearing, it feels nice and firm, and self centers precisely. It drives really straight and true at highway speed.

Sam

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