okay guys I need your professional opinions on what torsion bar size I should use on my front end?

What I have so far:
boxed & gussetted LCA's with poly bushing & greasable pins
fully adjustable tubular upper control arms
aluminium fully adjustable strut rods with poly bushings
11/16 tie- rod ends with aluminium sleeves
flaming river 16:1 manual steering box
edelbrock ias shocks front & rear (will be changing to rancho rs9000 shocks, so I can adjust from the driver seat like my Ramcharger,I love these shocks(not that the edelbrocks aren't excellent)I just want more adjustability)
1 1/8" energy suspension front sway bar with poly bushings & end links
73-up a-body spindles with disc brakes

The car is a 1968 Plymouth Valiant 100 2-door post 225/904
stock motor with electronic ignition & MSD box & coil.
This car is my daily driver, but I don't mind a harsh ride as long as the handling improves even more.Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Ted

_________________
mopar or no car
68 Valiant 100 2dr post /6 a-904 susp mods
78 Ramcharger 4x4 360 727 3/4t 33"
67 Charger 383 4bbl 727 trick suspension

Given the mods you have already done, you likely have a good idea about your usage and harshness tolerance.

One thing you didn't mention is your rear springs. Assumedly you will not run a rear sway bar, as is recommended for A-bodies. With some HD rear springs, I would run 0.990" bars on that car for the street. Max handling will ask for stiffer bars and stiffer rear springs, but will also depend on chassis stiffness. If you have subframe connectors and a 6 or 8 pt rollcage, then you can go stiffer. Anything stiffer than about 0.990" will likely be doing some body twisting/flex as part of your compliance.

MP still has some bars available, but prices have gone up and availability down. Not sure what sizes are around anymore. Firm Feel has 1.125" and 1.25" bars now.

Tires/wheels will also say something about which bars to use. What are you using?

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I was thinking the 990 bar would be the one but was not sure. I am currently running stock rear springs with an addco 3/4" rear sway bar.
My rims are 15 x 7 stock type steel wheels with dog dish caps & 235/60r15 rear & 215/65r15 fronts.The rear axle is a 8 3/4 with 3.23:1 open carrier.Future plans are to do the t-5 swap & probably 3.55:1 or 3.91:1 sure-grip. I haven"t done frame connectors yet but I will soon & maybe a cage or at least a main hoop bar for harness conection point.

_________________
mopar or no car
68 Valiant 100 2dr post /6 a-904 susp mods
78 Ramcharger 4x4 360 727 3/4t 33"
67 Charger 383 4bbl 727 trick suspension

There is no way to be sure which tbars are right, but those sound like the best place to start. I really like the 0.920" bars in my 64 Dart, but it is undoubtedly much lighter than your car in front, so they should be about equivalent ('glass hood, light wheels, no bumper/brackets, no heater box...).

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Please explain?

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I and many folks have tried rear bars for road racing and spirited street driving. Everyone racing one I know has pulled them off, or maybe used a really thin one (1/2" diam). The Chrysler rear springs have more roll resistance than most/all other manufacturers.

Not saying you can't make one work, but for most front bar and rear spring combos, they aren't desirable (read: oversteer, esp at high speeds). Matching rear spring rate to tbar rate and running a front sway bar will put you in a situation where a rear bar is not desirable.

For autocross, I know a couple of people using them, which makes sense since you want the car to rotate much more easily on a tight autox course.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988