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 Post subject: Aluminum Rods?
PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 8:18 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 1:50 pm
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Location: Pertneer Nashville TN
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I know where some BB440 rods are. aluminum and new. American stuff built for alcohol.

Or what other rods can be bought that are EZ to adapt? I wonder about a turbo aluminum rod.................................................... :twisted:

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto :-( Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 3:06 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

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Unless those are made for a stroker with the Chevy 2.200, or 2.100 rod journal size with the width of a Mopar rod Journal, they will not work. Even then the 440 rod journal width is to narrow for the /6 crank width on the rod jounal. In other words you end up with to much side clearance on the big end of the rod. There could be some welding done on the crank and there is quit a few rods that could work. Or I have heard some racers allow they have run engines with a lot of extra side clearnce with no problems, but these where track car & not street cars. WHat happens is there is a extreme amount of oil windage from the extra oil coming out from the sides of the rod, and also there can be oil pressure changes which the slant six really can afford to have.


If your not in a real big hurry, I happen to know there may be some Xmas pressents around December/January for the /6 showing up. I can't say anymore about it at this time, but a little waiting will pay off if you know what I mean.



Jess


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 1:28 pm 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
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There is a place just south of me here in Illinois that builds custom aluminum rods that use a Honda journal size, and were not incredibly expensive as far as custom rods go.

One problem with standard aluminum rods is that the big end is too wide to go through the bore when installing the pistons. Some of the racers overcame that by installing the pistons through the bottom of the block. (Or so they claim) :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 4:33 pm 
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Put the pistons in the top ......push down till the rings are just in the bottom of the bore.....slip in the rods and pins....add pin locks....open beer and start formulating lie about pistons from the bottom.

I have seen an OFFy bottom loaded.......

You can change the crank without removing head or pistons.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 5:22 pm 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
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Quote:
I have seen an OFFy bottom loaded.......

You can change the crank without removing head or pistons.
You can do that on most any motor. :shock:

Did you mean to say you can change the rods w/o removing the head or pistons? :?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 5:32 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:29 pm
Posts: 963
Location: Eustis, FL
Car Model: '68 V100, '68 V200, '79 Aspen, '84 D100
Quote:
I have seen an OFFy bottom loaded.......

You can change the crank without removing head or pistons.

Bottom load is the only way to do an Offy, head and cylinder is all one piece, no head gasket to blow. The cranks have 360* counter weights. They shake bad at idle but are smooth at 10,000. At least this is what the last driver to qualify an Offy at Indy told me.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 5:58 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 1:50 pm
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Location: Pertneer Nashville TN
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What an education this site is!! :!:

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto :-( Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick


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