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 Post subject: Distributor ??
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 6:38 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2007 7:32 am
Posts: 9
Location: Hemlock,Mi.
Car Model:
Does the ele. dist. w/vacuum adv. also have the centrifical advance on it? part #3755042. Thanks Bob


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 6:49 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24447
Location: North America
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Yes.

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 Post subject: Distributor ??
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 7:09 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2007 7:32 am
Posts: 9
Location: Hemlock,Mi.
Car Model:
Thank you!! Thank you!! Thank you!! Thats what I wanted to hear. I'm new with these Dodge parts and learning lots here. Bob


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 5:48 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 8:20 pm
Posts: 1603
Location: Oxford, Georgia
Car Model:
Just wondering - are you from the air cooled VW world? They're kind of infamous for running a vacuum advance distributor without centrifugal advances. I don't think Mopars ever did something like that.

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 Post subject: Distbutor ??
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 6:11 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2007 7:32 am
Posts: 9
Location: Hemlock,Mi.
Car Model:
No VW world here. When I say centrifical I mean the weights and spring mechanism. Dan replied yes to my question, and the dist. that I bought, the seller e-mail me and said it had both the vac. advance and mechanical advance on it.


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 Post subject: 1973-1974...
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 7:03 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
Car Model:
Quote:
3755042
Yeah, that would be a 'first' gen EI distributor for 1973-1974, expect 'if all stock', that the mech advance is a '15' style governor (30 degrees of crank advance), with a Vacc. adv pod stamped 8.5R (17 degrees of vacc. advance).

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject: Still At It
PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 12:34 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 2:01 pm
Posts: 269
Location: Lubbock, TEXAS
Car Model:
OK. I am sorry for being so stupid about this. For some reason, I am still not getting something. I replaced the carb with a new-new (thanks again Dan). After the oil pump debacle, I put the distributor back in and set the timing where it was before. It would still stall at a light when warm (auto tranny in gear foot on brake). So, I started playing again. I set the advance almost to 20 degrees. That took care of the problem. However for only about two days. For some reason, no matter what I do for this problem, it fixes it great for 2 days to 2 weeks and then goes right back to the same stalling problem even though I leave it alone. What in the world am I missing. Should I advance it even more? This seemed to be the best correction thus far. I suspect the marks on the damper are not correct. And the curving I STILL cannot understand. I never find any vacuum leaks. Last compression check was perfect. What am I missing and why would the problem go away for a short time and then return.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 2:01 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
I would look for vacuum leaks and also check for a stretched and or jumped timing chain.

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 Post subject: nope
PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 8:33 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 2:01 pm
Posts: 269
Location: Lubbock, TEXAS
Car Model:
Well, the timing chain is new. Not that new means it is still OK for sure. I have checked a bazillion times using propane for vacuum leaks and never found one. What puzzles me is how it works OK after I do something (adjust carb, install new carb, etc. but then after a few days or weeks it is back to stalling. In my most recent case, the timing was EXACTLY where I had set it but I just bumped it up more and it fixed the problem for a few days, now back to stalling and yet the timing is where I set it. Either we have to figure this out or I need to see the nice men in their clean white coats.

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 Post subject: Hmmm...
PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:21 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
Car Model:
You might try carb cleaner instead of propane since it's a nice 'shot' right on the area and produces immediate results. If you can rock the crank pulley back and forth (10-20 degrees worth) with the distributor cap off and see that the timing chain is tight both ways. I might suspect your fuel pump, or even the needle and seat/ float in the carb. Another shot might be the choke isn't set right, or your valve lash is a bit tight causing it to roughen up when warm and stall it for a while. You may even need to do Dan's Fuel line mod if vapor lock is in order...

???


-D.Idiot


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 Post subject: Ok
PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 8:51 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 2:01 pm
Posts: 269
Location: Lubbock, TEXAS
Car Model:
I did the fuel line mod and I have hydraulic lifters. I will try the carb cleaner method for leaks and recheck that and the other areas. It is just so strange that things are fine for a few days after doing something...anything, and then it's back to it's old tricks. Maybe it's possessed????


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 9:35 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2003 7:34 am
Posts: 2479
Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
Give me a call when you can.

My Valiant had a long term stalling problem that turned out to be from rust in the gas tank, clogging the fuel filter and messing with the carb.

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1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO


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 Post subject: New
PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 6:22 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 2:01 pm
Posts: 269
Location: Lubbock, TEXAS
Car Model:
The gas tank and fuel pump are brand new as is the carb. There is no dirt in the fuel filter. I just don't get it. It is the intermittent part that is really the stumper.


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