I've started searching for lead, flux, files, spoons and such.

Has anyone got a favorite source for these materials and tools? Any good books or internet links for a newbie to the process?

So far I'm finding 1/4# bars for between $2.50 -$3.00 on the internet. The Lead free stuff is pretty pricey...
I'm going to check with my local resources tomorrow.

The Valiant needs some serious attention.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Old wheel weights.....

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

CJ,www.eastwood.com.Still ain't cheap but they have alot of cool stuff

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

These melt down pretty easy. Be careful though, lead is, as we all know, very harmful when breathing. Make sure you wear a respirator and work in an open space.

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64 Plymouth Valiant

I found the Eastwood site. They have a lot of cool stuff alright!

After I check with my favorite local Parts house, if they don't have them, I'll place an order.

How many think I'll light something on fire?

I'll pull the squad over with the pro-pak just in case!

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

CJ,our local vol/fire folks use the old tuesday nite practice. I think I'd try on a tuesday and then if it was a burnin I be like "I planned it this way as a test to check on responce time" Good luck

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

see what your local firing range does with all the rounds they sweep up at the end of the day


I don't know if thats the kind of led you want though!

I used lead on my first real restoration, and was not at all happy with it. It can be the source of any number of different kinds of contamination that will come back and raise hell with your paint. I do not recommend you do it.

It is heavy
It is dangerous because of the flame.
The heat can warp your panels.
It is toxic.
The flux will cause rust.
The stuff you put on your paddles to keep the lead from sticking to the paddles will cause contamination with the paint.
It can look good and still not be really adhered to the metal well.

There are far better ways to fill panels with modern chemicals. There is a reason very few people use this stuff anymore.

Why do you want to use it? I can give you a better idea if you are interested.

Sam

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1

It'd be fine if you were doing an ol' tyme resto... But I had a co-worker whose husband used to be one of the best lead filler guys in town, 15 years back he was on disablilty and had to quit being a body guy due to the effects of lead on his body...

and you my friend should live a long happy fruitful life, so you can get out and race some more


-D.Idiot

I'm open to suggestions.

What do you recommend?

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I like to recommend a rust free car......

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Here's the problem. This car had a vinyl roof. I don't want to put vinyl back on it.

The C-Pillar was not finished at the factory. There is a weld at the base of the pillar from the back of the rear passenger door to the back window. It's about 1/2" deep and three inches wide.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Body solder is fine, lead-free is best, if applied properly and cleaned and prepped properly. The catch is that few people any more know how to work with it.

Polyester body filler is much friendlier and easier to work but you should only use a thin layer. Work the metal until you have it nearly perfect then use a skim coat of polyester filler to finish it off.

If you do use lead be sure to wear a proper respirator, not just a dust mask, and do not under any circumstances sand it. You may file it, but sanding releases a fine dust of lead that will be nearly impssible to clean up. If I were doing it I would only use the lead free body solder, just skip it alltogether and stick with polyester or epoxy.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

So how do I fill in the canyon? This isn't an area that is going to allow me to work the metal.
The resin type fillers crack in this deep an application.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

CJ, how bout cutting a filler piece out of sheet metal, weld that in and then do the bondo skin? Hope that helps.

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed