H'mmm...why not? Bolt pattern issues, or...? Is the water heating integral to the lower part of the throttle body, or is it a separate plate that goes below the T-body?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I refer you to fig14. On the left side of the base plate is a protrusion. I believe this is used to connect to a power brake cansiter. I am not sure, beause the F150 that I took this off of, had the this blocked off with a rubber hose and bolt, a typical Ford repair. The under side of the base plate is also grooved to port vaccum from the inlet ports to the protrusion. The commercial adapters do not make allowances for this and thus, you have a large vaccum leak.

Some of the Jeep guys have had problems with the commercial adapters. They bottom of the base plate for the 2100 is not the same as a Holley 2300. So there is the potential of vaccum leaks. The Jeep guys recommend the Transdapt adapter available from Summit over the the Mr Gasket adapter for just this very reason.

Final update on the Motorcraft 2100.

When I originally installed the carb, I tried to use the heater hose to heat the choke canister, AMC style. This did not work out. Not enough heat was transfered to the housing so the choke never fully opened up. After fruitlessly trying to adjust this to make it work, I just swapped on an electric housing from one of the parts carb. Choke problems have gone away.

After driving around for a couple of months now, I must say, I am happy with the swap. The gas mileage has gone up from a best of 19 mpg with the old BBD to 20 mpg at 80 mph and 23 at 65 mph. Those mileage marks also include a hour or so of first gear bumper to bumper Seattle commutes, and two steep mountain passes.

Not bad for obsolete technology.

So did you do Dual Dutra Duals or a single with a modified stock for the rear?
-Jesse

Two Dutra castings.

Loaded up pictures for your viewing pleasure.

http://www.kesteb.us/album/dutras/

Excellent documentation. I love reading about your work.

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Bob Brady
Slanted 67 Barracuda

Thanks, digital cameras make picture taking cheap. The lack of film development costs has paid for the camera.

An short update. As most of you know, when you free up the exhaust, you may have to rejet the carburetor. If you listen to the Honda boys, a too large exhaust will ruin your low end torque. Not necessarily so, usually not re-calibrating the fuel mixture lowers performance. A problem with a non-adjustable ECM.

On the 2100, all I had to do was move the linkage for the accelerator pump to the top hole on the lever, to cover a small bog and adjusted the idle jets out half a turn to handle a slight surge. AFM (analog fuel mixer) you gotta love it...

Runs pretty good right now. I adjusted the choke, again. I had to "lean out" the setting. The little pointer on the choke housing is now way past anything Ford/AMC thought was reasonable. At least now it comes off the fast idle by the time I reach work (about 3 miles).

Do you know if the Motorcraft 2150 has a ported vacuum for the vacuum advance? Mine has the choke pull off, should I leave it on or just take it off? And would the choke pull off port work for the vacuum advance?

I was getting ready to change my head gasket and needed to change my 1bbl intake (it was cracked). I just found a 2bbl intake and was going to put on a Holley 5210. I had it setup and ready to go, I just needed the adapter to mate the two. Had a guy that had one cheep but, I guess it got lost in the mail. So, I needed to move on and started to work on the 2150 I had.
It came off an 81 Ford Truck but, it's still a small 1.08 carb. I noticed it had a long power valve is that the two stage version?

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82 D150 Slant6 Shorty
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/658846

I posted a reply to your thread here:

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25541

Good luck with your setup. I really like the 2100.

Nice work and writeup.

Have a permit for that shop?

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Permit, whats a permit...

It's been a while since I updated this page. I have done a few things lately.

Guess what, this year I painted the car a nice Rustoleum primer red, ta da... Well, at least it is one color now.

I replaced the windshield. The big crack is gone and "I can see clearly again" (sounds like a song I heard before..). One of the best improvements that I have done.

Rebuilt the windshield wipers and linkage. Resoldred the internal brass contacts on the single speed switch, it works now. The Layson's wiper rebuild kit works really nice. The best part is the grease fittings. I filled the pivots with grease and they quited down really nice. At least now, I have some confidence that the wipers will work when I turn them on.

Had the rear end rebuilt and changed the gears to a 3.55 ratio with a limited slip carrier. No more gear whine and the car accelerates!. Even thou 70 is around 3200 rpm and I will not longer be able to do 156 mph.

Stripped out all the old, musty interior and failing sound deadener, makes car lighter, makes car nosier... The scarifies that we make for going faster...

Installed a new SPEC 9" clutch and pressure plate. I am still feeling this one out. It is not broken in yet, but seems to be a little sensitive.

Rebuilt the engine. The original '78 Super Six engine has been replaced with a bastard hi-breed. It's nice when you just have parts laying around. This is what was done.

Block prep: late '70s cast crank block.

Overbore .030
Decked .050
Sealed Power .030 pistons
Sealed Power rings
Pistons are .137 in the hole
Oil passages were massaged, ala Dutra style.
New Sealed Power oil pump
F-Body oil pan modified to fit the '65s chassis with home made oil dams and windage tray.

Crank prep:

Late '70s cast crank
Deburred and turned .010 under on the rods and mains.
Clevite bearings with full groved mains (you only have to buy 2 sets of mains to make this work).
Rebuilt rods with ARP fasteners.

Head prep:

A '78/'79 peanut plug head
Home ported passages.
Oversize 1.70/1.44 valves.
Shaved .060
54cc chamber size.
#54 Autolite plugs

Camshaft:

Erson TQ 20M - *270/.465 advanced *4 to increase low end torque.
A Dutra cam stop in the timing chain cover.
A full, double roller timing chain.

Exhaust:

The already mentioned Dutras and exhaust system.

Intake:

Offenhauser 4v intake
Edelbrock 500cfm AVS.
A Ford 4v water heated base plate and home made adapter for the manifold. This gives you a combined 1 1/4" spacer plate. Along with a really old Erson branded drop down 14" air cleaner with 3" element.

Ignition:

Stock Chrysler ECU set at *10 BTDC with *30 total advance, vacuum advance not hooked up.

Final compression ratio is 8.75:1 static with a 7.5:1 DCR, it happily runs on 87 octane unleaded. I have a little less the 500 miles on this combination. It runs real good and has a nice cam lope at idle.

While a little bit past the previous post, the engine decided to munch the main bearings. The tear down didn't reveal a cause. Just a badly scarred crank and disintegrated bearings. The machinist cringed when I mentioned the fully grooved bearings...

So the crank was turned to .030 and new bearings were installed. Along with a new Mellings oil pump. Pumping a metal slurry thru an oil pump is not a good thing! The engine was reassembled with the cam straight up this time. When done, it fired right up and now has close to 3000 miles on it.

During that 3000 miles I had to replace the inlet needle and jets in the carb as they leaked and adjusted the float level because it was way off from the correct settings. Thank you Edelbrock! I then adjusted the primary jetting up by three steps, and then adjusted the secondary jets up by one step. To smooth out the transition I switched the step up springs to the "orange" ones. So much for the carb working on "small" displacement engines right out of the box!

The OEM spark box died and was replaced with a Summit CD box. The distributors governors was modified by brazing the slots to a 7/32" length which brings the total timing to 31.5* at 2500 rpm with a base of 10* BTDC. The advance springs where swapped to one "black" spring from mopar spring kit and one OEM "large loop black" spring. This produced a nice balanced advanced curve.

Last year the car was running low 9's in the 1/8 mile and mid 17's in the 1/4 mile. It will be interesting to see what it does this season.