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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 10:01 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Apr 09, 2006 6:08 pm
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Location: Comfrey MN
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Ya, factory tolerences are poor to say the least but that doesn't mean that when a defect is pointed out that they shouldn't at least try to fix the issue.

I sublet out some frame work last year on a Road Runner I restored. The hood and fenders didn't fit well at all. I called the shop owner up and talked to the frame technician. His excuse was that the factory tolerences were +/- 1/4"! That's a half inch swing!! From now on all the sheetmetal gets installed before it leaves the frame rack.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 10:45 am 
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Location: North America
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Quote:
Ya, factory tolerences are poor to say the least but that doesn't mean that when a defect is pointed out that they shouldn't at least try to fix the issue.
Right...and I've never seen a factory cap off-centre like the Echlin caps, so I think their line about "meeting factory specs" was just boilerplate text designed to get me to shut up (ha, fat chance of that...)
Quote:
I sublet out some frame work last year on a Road Runner I restored. The hood and fenders didn't fit well at all. I called the shop owner up and talked to the frame technician. His excuse was that the factory tolerences were +/- 1/4"
Tilt! :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 6:41 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2005 5:45 pm
Posts: 18
Location: Clarksburg WV
Car Model:
Quote:
Ya, factory tolerences are poor to say the least but that doesn't mean that when a defect is pointed out that they shouldn't at least try to fix the issue.

I sublet out some frame work last year on a Road Runner I restored. The hood and fenders didn't fit well at all. I called the shop owner up and talked to the frame technician. His excuse was that the factory tolerences were +/- 1/4"! That's a half inch swing!! From now on all the sheetmetal gets installed before it leaves the frame rack.
Installing the sheet metal is standard procedure, just think the tolerances on all cars were horrible in until the early eightys. You could remove a rusty non wrecked fender from one car and bolt on a straight one from a doner and you had better have all shims because you would need them to make everything line up.

Remember the old Jap car commercial with rolling a marbel down the hood lines of their cars?

This was for a reason for the marbel, Detroit sheetmetal did not line up properly.
My dad still has a bought new 78 powerwagon that the hood hit the fender on the passenger side the day it came off the car carrier.
He bought the truck before it was even un-loaded.

Shawn

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 Post subject: Echlin cap
PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 9:35 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Wed Sep 05, 2007 5:41 pm
Posts: 22
Location: South of Albany NY
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Hey Dan!

I don't know whether or not I need a cap just yet, but I was at NAPA yesterday getting my carb kit, and took a look at the cap they had there for my '74 Dart /6. It was light tan, and ground dead on-center. I'd be happy to put it on my /6.

Couldn't get a float from NAPA for the 1920, but Advance Auto shows one on the web (part # CF362). Gonna order/buy one tomorrow.

About all I did with my Dart today was look under it to see if I had disc brakes. Sure enough!

Take care and enjoy the day!

Frank


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 9:47 am 
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So...Echlin fix the problem right in time for their parts line to be consolidated with Standards, eh? :roll: :lol:

Thanks for the news report.

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 Post subject: Re: Echlin cap
PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 10:43 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 2:50 pm
Posts: 1742
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
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Quote:
Hey Dan!

I don't know whether or not I need a cap just yet, but I was at NAPA yesterday getting my carb kit, and took a look at the cap they had there for my '74 Dart /6. It was light tan, and ground dead on-center. I'd be happy to put it on my /6.

Couldn't get a float from NAPA for the 1920, but Advance Auto shows one on the web (part # CF362). Gonna order/buy one tomorrow.

About all I did with my Dart today was look under it to see if I had disc brakes. Sure enough!

Take care and enjoy the day!

Frank
I've had the same results. The one I pulled off when I first got the car was off centered, but the two I've bought since then were dead center (or at least as close as I could tell by eyeballing it).

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 12:46 pm 
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Just got this e-mail from the SMP engineer:

===
We could not find the old stamping die which made the longer MO-3000 segment, but we did find another which had no use. We modified this tool to make the longer MO-3000 contact segment. Segments have been made, we're waiting for production dept to complete the plastic moldings & assembly.

===

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 10:26 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Feb 19, 2005 5:31 am
Posts: 969
Location: Norway
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8) 8) :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 1:45 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2007 11:04 am
Posts: 337
Location: Western Maryland
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I just went to p/u the two rotors I ordered.

Dan hit the nail on the head. One of them was tan and had a long terminal on it. The other was white and had a short nose on it.

Course I only took the tan one.

Interesting!


C

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-68 Valiant, 273 2bbl
-67 Dart /6 4bbl, Leaning Tower of Power!!!

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 Post subject: They're here!
PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 11:48 am 
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Just got a "now available again" package from SMP, containing 3 shiny new MO-3000 long-tip rotors. :-)

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 Post subject: where r they?
PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 7:46 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2003 8:14 pm
Posts: 298
Location: West Covina, CA
Car Model: 1968 A108 225/3 on the tree
how long till they get dispersed to the west coast?

what stores will they be available at?

D~~~!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 7:48 am 
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You'll still be getting 'em from NAPA. If they try to palm off a white one on you, tell 'em to order another, and keep ordering until the right (tan) ones come in.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 1:37 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
What's the length of the 'good' ones vs 'bad' ones in case they change colors...........

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 2:16 pm 
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Don't have a short one to measure. Got a long one to measure, but my micrometer's gone missing! :shock: They're not gonna change colours in the foreseeable future. All the new MO-3000s are tan.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 12:47 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2006 6:18 pm
Posts: 36
Car Model:
Well, I ordered 2 MO3000's from a reputable online Napa retailer (I don't have a convenient Napa store). Got the white rotors, not tan. The guy at the place tried to help, contacting Napa and Echlin. His final response is below, the picture he talks about was a link to a slantsixdan post with the white and tan rotor photos that I sent to him.

"Thanks for your patience I finally got through to Echlin and they don’t have any of the rotors like the picture you sent me. They all come black now with a metal tip if you can’t use them send them back in a nice neat box and we will give you a refund. I’m sorry about this they should at least have sent out a bulletin."

The ones I got were off white, not black by any means, but not brite white either. I'm going to contact Napa directly and see if I can get a better response. I may have to make a couple of trips to an out of town dealer, but they'll probably get white ones too. Any advice?

Thanks,
John

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