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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 4:00 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 11:40 pm
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Location: Seattle,WA
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hi mopar lovers i posted earlyer about my electrical problems i have since checked a few things out and i have a bit more info so someone can try to help me better. ok my hazzards and headlights work, no dash lights but when the hazzards are on i get one turn siginal light on my dask blinking. so if the hazzards work why not the turn siginals the fuze box looks great, the grounds look ok. hmmmmmm

i also need to pull the dash and replace the dash lights or check them for voltage, any advice?

MiDi

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project
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Last edited by MiDi on Fri Oct 19, 2007 9:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 10:30 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7416
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
1793? :lol: That's a rare model!

Have you got a manual yet? If you look at the Schematic, there are several places to check.
It sounds like you have more than one problem though.

When you checked your grounds, did you remove them and clean them up? Disconnect the wiring connectors and inspect them.
You may also have a problem with your turn signal switch, and perhaps the emergency flasher switch.
Are your tail and brake lights working?

Lot's of things to inspect.

Be very careful when removing the instrument cluster. It's very easy to break the plastic.
I always disconnect the battery, chock the wheels, then put the key in and turn it on so I can shift the transmission lever for more clearance, Then I drop the steering column.
Then remove the screws that hold the cluster in. Rock the cluster forward and disconnect the Speedo cable.
There are several connectors that you'll have to deal with on the back of the panel.
Be very careful removing the cluster. It takes some time to get it out. If you find yourself trying to force something, your going to end up with broken plastic.

It's probably best to get that FSM before getting too wild with things.

Did I miss anything guys?

CJ

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 10:57 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 11:40 pm
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Location: Seattle,WA
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thanks a lot, i guess i am gonna try to do that this weekend. opps on the 1793 i had too many pints earlyer :)

thanks

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 7:22 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7416
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
No Pints before exploratory surgery on the Dart!

Well, maybe one. :D

CJ

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 Post subject: A couple things
PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 7:26 am 
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You don't have to take out the whole column, just loosen the part underneath the dash and let it hang. Sorry if that is what you meant!

Also, the battery disconnect is a great idea because all the power goes thru the ammeter and that is a really easy wire to pinch when replacing your cluster. Then you can let the smoke out of it when you hook up the battery again, especially if the previous owner bypassed a fusable link. Don't ask me how I know.

Good luck

Kevin

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 9:41 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 11:40 pm
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Location: Seattle,WA
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thanks for the advice! all of you guys rock!

well today i am getting tags on it and hopefully getting a book on it.
i also put in a 1/2 tank of new gas (the gas that was in there was 5yrs old)
and omg it runs so much better already!

after i get the book,i think i am going to pick up a decent radio for it and a replacement dash pad and tackle the dash/electrical problems all at once, because i would rather not tear it apart more than once. i think that makes since.....

what tools will i require? i think i have everything.i have a good digital multi-meter and electroinics tech tool kit. just asking cause when i pick up the book @ the parts store i could pick up what tools i need also.

oh! on my earlyer post i said i ran the car thru a car wash and no water got in, well after after yesterdays storm i noticed a little bit of water sitting on the floor mats on both sides of the front. i crawled under the dash and everything looked dry, but i hope i can some how seal this up and make sure my electronics are dry.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 10:10 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7416
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
The windshield wiper shafts are a common leak point. There's an outfit in Washington that sells a kit for replacing the foam rubber grommett they go through, and the gasket that the fitting bolts up to.

Get that kit. It's not very expensive. less than $20.
Somebody help me here, what's the name of the company that sells those?

Also look around for the bushings that go on the wiper links. I bought new at a Dodge Dealer a couple of years ago. My understanding is the supply of these parts is drying up. Still worth looking.

Have fun!

CJ

Edit! Schumacher. Give them a call. $16 or something like that. :D

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 12:53 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 23, 2007 10:53 am
Posts: 159
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Car Model: 1968 Plymouth Valiant 100
My 2 cents, just make sure its the real service (repair) manual and not the haynes book. When I first bought my valiant I bought a haynes and that book was useless. Then the guys here told me to buy the FSM and it has been a lifesaver!

Another thing, my car has had similar problems. BUT I have no headlights, or lights for that matter. My turn signals would work (in the dash not outside) but my flashers would only work if I had my blinker on. I did the dash cluster update (with replaced bulbs) and it still wouldn't light up. Then I started going through the wiring in the engine compartment and most of them are melted. One wire from the alternator had no plastic on it, thats how bad it was. I've almost replaced all of the engine compartment wires and am almost ready to turn the key and see if it comes to life.

But as radarsonwheels said, check to see if you still have fusible links, mine were all mising; note the wires being replaced.

-Dan


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 2:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 7:19 am
Posts: 470
Location: SC
Car Model: 63 Dart 81 D150
Well as far as tools, I don't remember there being anything "strange" in there when I took my 63 apart. Everything seemed to be common sizes and stuff. One thing you will need if you are installing a modern radio is a way to cut the dash. 99.9% of modern radios are "din" sized, a rectangular hole. The car should have a "shaft mount" if it has a radio. A sawzall and file will work. On my 63 I built a wood box and mounted it to the transmission hump.


good luck

TopHat


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 2:38 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 12:57 am
Posts: 1386
Location: Grass Valley, Ca.
Car Model: '63 Dodge Dart GT Convertible
Quote:
hi mopar lovers i posted earlyer about my electrical problems i have since checked a few things out and i have a bit more info so someone can try to help me better. ok my hazzards and headlights work, no dash lights but when the hazzards are on i get one turn siginal light on my dask blinking. so if the hazzards work why not the turn siginals the fuze box looks great, the grounds look ok. hmmmmmm

i also need to pull the dash and replace the dash lights or check them for voltage, any advice?

MiDi
The turn signals & hazzard lights are two different circuits. Each has its own switch and flasher unit. The one turn signal light working may be from a burned out lamp in the cluster. More important is if you have any lights working outside the car.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 7:38 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 11:40 pm
Posts: 1533
Location: Seattle,WA
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thanks again guys!

yeah i looked at the haynes book today and it was a joke.

the following outside lights work, headlights,flashers,brake lights just not turn siginals.

as far a modern radio i know i will have to break out my cordless sawzall and have some fun! i picked up a template today for the hole.

i pulled part of the dash and found out that the dash lights where burnt out, so i put it back together and i'll make it up to the parts store to get bulbs.

i am starting to think that the turn siginal switch its self is bad. i'll check that out tomorrow. because everything else looks great.

i took her out today on a empty highway (I84) and hit 90+ mph like nothing, it was awesome. if i can fix this electrical issue i will have an awesome car.

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2007 10:21 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 12:57 am
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Location: Grass Valley, Ca.
Car Model: '63 Dodge Dart GT Convertible
Try this test:

Have someone stand behind the car to watch the lights. With the turn signal switch in the center position, step on the brake. Both lamps should light. Then turn the switch to the left and right positions. If the rear brake light goes out on the side you turn the switch to, then the switch may still be OK, and the problem could just be no power to the flashing circuit. Find the flasher and check for 12v on one of the terminals (with the key on). If no 12v then try to follow the wires back to the fuse block and check for power there.

Sometimes the fuses are OK but the fuse block itself is rusted and prevents power from getting through the fuse. You test this with a voltmeter. With the key on and the signal switch turned to the left or right, check for 12v at BOTH sides of the fuse. Touch the meter to the fuse itself, not the fuse clip. If you don't have power at all, there is a problem with the fuse block. If there is power on only one side, check the fuse clip for rust and clean as necessary. Also check ALL fuses with an ohmmeter. I have seen fuses that look OK, even with a magnifying glass, but are not functioning.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2007 11:31 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 11:40 pm
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Location: Seattle,WA
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thanks a lot chuck! i will do that today if the weather in porland improves.
you guys are awesome!

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