If you do this, we want frequent updates and lots of photos!
Doug's a real asset to all of us!
Finding a compatible non-vented Chrysler disk might be a problem.
I'm thinking 8 3/4", with several ratios already set up. It's heavier, but much easier to change gears, and you won't break it.
Exactly the combination I was thinking while reading your post.
Cutting the block would remove the deck, wouldn't it?

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Hello Peter,

Man, sounds like a great project. You should really turn some heads with this one. Are from NZ, based on your moniker?

So, why do they limit you to 170 ci? Tens of thousands of 60-62 Valiants were made with 225s. Doing the 198 crank in the 170 block would be best way to make 212 ci. This will save you about 20-25 lbs in block mass, some reciprocating assy mass, and will make a more compact package. You could also build a 198 in a standard high deck block, which would just get you a better rod ratio and nothing else.

The Kelsey-Hayes 11" discs should work well for you and were found on A-bodies starting in 64 or 65. Are you allowed aftermarket calipers? If so, you can get a conversion package from ssbrakes.com with aluminum 4 piston calipers that will likely be better and easier to buy/repair than factory units.

If $$ is no object (shipping), then you might consider getting an Aussie Borg Warner 7.25" rear, which has LSDs available and many gear ratios. Weighs just a bit more than a Mopar 7.25" and looks almost identical. Cameron Tilley (Sydney, Oz) runs this in his 62 S-series Valiant, which is a circuit course car with 350+HP Slant. I wouldn't bother with an 8.25" axle since a 8.75" is WAY easier to work on, is a better design and weighs only slightly more (maybe 10lbs). I have a Ford 8" in my road race Valiant, which is light and strong, but not sure if you are allowed to run that.

You should feel no resistance to getting an alloy bellhousing and alloy 833. These will hold up fine to the HP levels you will have. Passon Performance has road race gearsets for the 833, and new aluminum cases. You can get alloy bellhousings for 4spds from 70s trucks, vans, Volares/Aspens, Darts/Valiants. Ebay has these all the time.

Best place for clutches is McLeod in CA. They can make alum flywheel and set up a diaphragm or B&B clutch to suit you.

Happy building,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks for your interest guys. I'll certainly keep you posted.

To answer the points you've raised:

Yep; NZ based in the UK.

Project must be based on a pre-1960 car, Valiants went on sale late '59, and those were only 170's.

Aftermarket multi-piston ally calipers expressly forbidden. Calipers must be sourced from the Chrysler 'family', so it's 2 piston I'm afraid unless somebody can advise that 4 piston calipers were offered on something.

Are you suggesting the Borg Warner 7.25" rear is a superior solution to the Mopar 7.25"? If so, I would appreciate contact details for Cameron Tilley or perhaps a Borg Warner supplier in Aussie. The rules preclude the Ford option.

Many thanks for the advice on the bellhousing/trans. I'd appreciate being able to get back to you for more info in a little while.

Kind Regards

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Regards

Peter

The K-H calipers are 4 piston from the factory. The rotors are vented from the factory too, so hope that's not a problem.

The BW rears are stronger than a 7.25 and have many more parts available. Cameron could probably have an axle built for you. I'll PM you his contact info.

Cheers,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Hi Lou

Thanks very much for the info on brakes, most interesting; unfortunately I've reviewed the rules and they state that vented discs and 4 piston calipers are not permitted. However, as they were original fitment I'll seek clarification from the scrutineers about how this rule might apply in this particular case and let you know the outcome. Otherwise it's the biggest Mopar solid rotors and most effective Mopar 2 piston calipers we can fit within 14" rims.

Also at the front end, I'd appreciate guidance on what options (and suppliers) are available to uprate torsion bar spring rates (larger dia bars off other Mopars, etc) and also anti-roll bar options.

Are there any quick-ratio steering options available in the US?

Thanks also for Cameron's details, hopefully I'll be able get a couple of axles ordered.

Talk to you soon.

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Regards

Peter

Well, since Chrysler in the US went straight to vented rotors with 4 piston calipers I hope you can get them approved. It's not like Jag and others that started with solid discs. What replaced the various brands of 4 piston calipers (Kelsey Hayes for A bodies like the Valiant) were single piston sliding calipers.

Firm Feel www.firmfeel.com is a good Stateside start for suspension and steering upgrades. There is a list of wheel rates for the various torsion bars sizes. There is also 20:1 and 16:1 steering boxes to replace the original manual 24:1 box. Nice sway bars too.

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Joshua

Yes, you should tell them that Chrysler never offered solid rotor discs. I know of no Chrysler 2 piston calipers either. It's either the early 4-piston or late single piston as Josh said. If they will allow the 1973-up single piston, those will probably be better than the earlier ones and MUCH easier to get parts for. It's possible you might find some big single piston discs on trucks or fullsize cars from 66-down?

I agree that Firmfeel is the best place to get T-bars and steering boxes and sway bars. They may be able to set up a tubular sway bar, and they are even considering hollow t-bars, I'm told.

Personally, with 14" tires and your light car, I would not go too heavy on the T-bars, maybe 1.00" or close and match rear springs to that rate.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Australian A bodies from VC (released March '66) through VF(production finished July '70) had solid front discs with (I think) 2 piston caliper.

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Richard (aka Fingers)

Thanks for your replies guys, it's all great stuff (particularly the Firmfeel advice), keep it coming.

I'll pursue the vented/4 piston angle with the authorities but I'm not that hopeful. You were on to something VG-265; the '65 AP6 V8's apparently had a disc option. Somebody out there will know if they are the solid/2 piston option we might need.

Here's another enquiry; what's the biggest 'Mopar family' drum brake arrangement we could get on to a BW 7.25 axle and still fit within the bodywork and 14" rims? Eg, in some instances a station wagon version had a larger dia or wider brake compared to its sedan equivalent; perhaps the larger cars, etc?

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Regards

Peter

You can go as large as 11"x3"drum on the rear just use all of the parts from a C-body ( ie. 70 newyorker ) you may have to do some adjustment to the 11" backing plates. some 74 Police and taxi darts and valiants had 11"x2" rear brakes. we did this set up 2 years ago and everything worked out fine.

yes 14 " wheels fit the 11" brake drum

Eaton Detroit Springs can hook you up with any rate rear springs that you want .also can do ride hight for handling.Talk to the owner Mike Eaton. you can e-mail or call him direct www.eatonsprings.com
Tell him Romeo sent you,Mike is great to work with.

Thanks for your input Romeo, most interesting. However whatever I do on this car has to be pre-1966 - anything from that era that is big and wide? Anything Mopar is acceptable. I'm even wondering if the front drum set-up off the Valiant could be adapted to the rear?

Right: I've had a response from the race organisers regarding the vented/4 pot front brake option - it's forbidden. So we're back to the solid disc/2 pot option. In the meantime I'll chase up that early Aussie Valiant disc option. Question is: is there an 11" solid disc option available to us?

Cheers

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Regards

Peter

Any c- body 1966 should have a 11" brake option OR a 66 Hemi Dodge Charger? I didn't even think of a 65 or 66 Chrysler Imperial. They may even had rear disc, I'm sure that they would be vented though. Worth looking into.