I own a 64 Dart (golden anniversary, huzzah!), and I keep running into little issues.

One such is that, when idling, my car is fine. but as soon as I put into drive or reverse, it'll stall out on me. I've put my head together with a few other people and mulled over the possibilities, and aside from things revolving around the carb, our only other guess is that there's a clogged tranny filter mucking things up...


any pointers, guesses, or whatnot would be immensely helpful!

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Day Ten

Attacked by Orcs. Aragorn "No Skillz 2 Pay Da Billz" Son of Arathorn fell over cliff, thus avoiding sticking around for battle. So much for Hero King of Men.

Welcome on the board.

It's not a transmission filter issue (clogged filters cause the trans to slip out of gear). Idle speed and/or mixture might not be adjusted correctly, could be a problem with timing...can you tell us a little about what you've worked on so far? What kind of recent tune-up and maintenance work the car's had? How many miles are on it, that kind of thing?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

lets see... I replaced the fuel pump (it was dead), fuel filter, rebuilt the carburetor, changed the points and plugs, and that's about it... I do need to check the timing... that, and I'm missing a muffler and a good 5 feet of tail pipe (but now I have a good excuse to put in a glass pack!)...
it almost feels like it's vapor locking, though... after it's warmed up and I stop, if it dies, it takes a bit to get it started again...

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Day Ten

Attacked by Orcs. Aragorn "No Skillz 2 Pay Da Billz" Son of Arathorn fell over cliff, thus avoiding sticking around for battle. So much for Hero King of Men.

How long was this car sitting before you started to work on it?

Check to make sure the manifold heat control valve isn't stuck in the heat-on position. Do the fuel line mod. Verify your PCV system is clean, working, and hooked up correctly. Verify TDC at the frontmost cylinder relative to the timing mark, then set the timing to 5° BTDC with the engine idling at 700 rpm and the vacuum advance hose disconnected and plugged. Verify the vacuum advance isn't blown and the mechanical advance is working freely. Carefully adjust the idle speed and mixture per this procedure.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

for the fuel line mod, would a hose-barb with a 360 degree swivel already attached work?

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Day Ten

Attacked by Orcs. Aragorn "No Skillz 2 Pay Da Billz" Son of Arathorn fell over cliff, thus avoiding sticking around for battle. So much for Hero King of Men.

If the other end was 5/16" IV-flare, sure.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

How exactly do you go about doing this?

okay, I need two of these, a long hunk of fuel injection hose, clamps, and a fuel filter?

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Day Ten

Attacked by Orcs. Aragorn "No Skillz 2 Pay Da Billz" Son of Arathorn fell over cliff, thus avoiding sticking around for battle. So much for Hero King of Men.

heh, I actually bought it for a parts car so I could restore a '64 Dart station wagon, but decided to try to fix it up instead... before I bought it, it apparently drove down from Alaska to Oregon, sat for a bit, I picked it up, drove it for a good 2 years, then I needed to get something that was 'reliable' and it's sat for quite a bit since then (about 2 or 3 years).

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Day Ten

Attacked by Orcs. Aragorn "No Skillz 2 Pay Da Billz" Son of Arathorn fell over cliff, thus avoiding sticking around for battle. So much for Hero King of Men.

Well, you need either one or two of the pictured fitting, depending on whether your '64 has the Carter carb (w/front fuel inlet) or Holley carb (w/side fuel inlet). If you've got the Holley, it's better/easier/cleaner for the carb fitting to be the straight ("180°") version referenced in the linked instructions. Rest of your shopping list checks out OK.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Pull the vacuum advance hose off the carburetor, clean off the end, put it in your mouth, and suck. If you can suck air, the vacuum advance and/or hose needs replacement. If you can't, you should hear a "click!" from the distributor if you suddenly release the suction. This is a pretty good indicator that the vacuum advance is intact and working. It's even easier to see if it's working by applying suction while the engine's idling and you're pointing a timing light at the timing mark to check that it advances with increasing suction, and easier still if you're using a vacuum pump instead of your mouth.

The mechanical advance can be given a rough check by removing the distributor cap, grasping the rotor and twisting it firmly clockwise. You should encounter spring resistance, and the rotor should snap back to its home position when you let go. (it's easier to do this test with the engine not running ) A more complete test is to hook up a timing light, disconnect the vacuum advance, and watch the timing mark as you rev up the engine. The timing should advance with increasing RPMs and drop back down to the baseline setting at idle.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.