Some good info. on water pumps.
Over-all, the SL6 has a good pump and pump scroll design. If you look closely at the scroll, it is not perfectly round and the pump's impeller is off-set with-in the scroll's pocket area. There is increasing space between the impeller and the outer scroll wall as the coolant approaches the water jacket entrance.



As many of us know, the impeller rides close to the back wall of the cavity.
Last time I checked, there was about .06 of clearance, so a bent shaft, bent impeller blade or rust scale build-up can cause the impeller to rub on the back of the pocket. This close fit does make it hard to add a separate "disc" fastened right to the impeller blades. Again, base on the already close fit, my guess is that adding a plate would not show much gain.

I have always felt that the "pinch point", where the impeller passes the opening to the water jacket and moves back into the scroll pocket is most important to good flow and over-all pump performance. This is why I had to weld-up all the corrosion I found in Twiggy.

You can get a good look at this intersection if you cut a viewing window into a scrap pump and then mount it to your block.



Getting a real close "fly by" at this place increases the pressure in the water jacket. Knowing this is one reason why I don't like the gasket thickness worth of space between the flow deflection 'ramp' and the pump's separator plate. I think it would be better if the gasket sealed off that space.

Also noted is the importance of the transition area, where the coolant moves from the scroll and into the water jacket. It is common to see casting seams and rough surfaces that can be quickly ground out. I go as far as smoothing the outer scroll wall and outer pocket back wall so the coolant flows smoothly into the water jacket.
DD

One last water pump "trick" is to file-out the water pump's mounting holes to the driver's side so you can position the pump's impeller blades closer to the "pinch point".

I start all the bolts and slide the pump over until I feel contact while spinning it. (see arrow) At that point, snug the bolts and then tap the pump the opposit way, until the contact stops, then tighten the bolts to spec.
DD

I will be installing a 60-66 oil pan onto this engine so I had to clean-up a used pick-up tube. ( these are not available new)

Step #1, pry the swedged seam open with a pair of wire cutters:



Once the cover is off, move the screen and counter-sink the end of the tube. There is usually a large burr right at the tube's entry point:



There will be a lot of "crusty junk" stuck in the covered pocket area so once you have your grinding work finished, it is off to the solvent tank for a good scrubbing:



Once the unit is clean, reassemble the screen and cover by using a pair of plyers to compress the raised seam.
DD

Doc,
A few years ago I remember Mopar offered a check ball used on oil pickup tubes to prevent oil drainback when the engine is not running. The idea was oil would remain in the oil passages and cold starting would have an already primed engine.
Is that still available and do you recommend that?

I have not seen a "check-ball" set-up in a pick-up tube. Has anyone else ever seen or used one?

So why does this piece of plexiglass stay 'stuck' to this jar of water?

1) Because I glued it on with epoxy.
2) I shot the picture "right side up" the rotated the image in photoshop.
3) The seal between the jar and the plate does not allow any air in so this creates a suction that holds the plate in place.




Now how does this apply to the SL6's oil system and oil drain back?
(wow, that is too much thinking for a Saturday morning... I think I will go back to bed)

Ill pick door # 3 yer officer.....

Looks like the plexi over chamber when CCing heads...

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Same principle as those pet watering stations that use a bottle of water inverted in a bowl. The only thing is that I'm not so sure the top end is completely sealed in a /6. Can oil not drain back through the pump impellers and allow air into the pickup path?

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

This image helps...

I think I need to go out and examine the engine block and oil pump to really be able to see what's Happening. Thanks Doug.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Putting a 30 degree slant on it helps even more...
You are on the right track, we need to keep the air out, that keeps the oil in the passageways and filter.
Note: the bottom of the pick-up is always covered with oil so air can't get in from the bottom.
DD

From that angle I can see it. I was thinking something didn't quite look right.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Just for a data point, I've never heard of Mopar or anyone else offering a check ball as described. I looked in various Mopar Performance catalogues and other Chrysler parts lit ranging from '60s to last year, and didn't see any mention of same.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

My 74 came with the check ball and spring but I had my oil changed by some one else once and they lost the ball and handed me a the spring because the stand pipe unscrewed with the filter, nice. Now I just have the long stand pipe.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

You're talking about the check valve in the standpipe on the oil pump's filter mounting base...not a check ball and valve setup in the oil pickup pipe as mentioned by AndyZ. Totally different animal.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Correct! That is the part they lost.....are those available?

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG