getting ready to change manifolds on the slant. haven't started the job yet, but it looks like a S.O.B. to get at the two bottom center bolts right behind the exhaust outlet and heat riser. can't hardly see the one behind the heat riser. are there any tricks available out there for making the manifold swap a little easier?? or getting at these bolts or nuts?
thanks,
Chuck

Use a long socket w a long extension to get at these. I think I used a 1/4 inch drive-but I had loosened and neverseized them the last time it was off-made a big difference when I went to swap the head. For the flanged washers-I put them on a long slim screwdrive to get them into position, and then pushed them off the shaft of the screwdrived onto the stud with a piece of wire. Soak, soak soak w your favorite penetrating fluid and take your time. Mike

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Good gun control is hitting your target repeatedly

See This Article for SL6 manifold installation tips.
DD

I just did this yesterday. Use a 1/2 inch six-point one-quarter inch drive socket on the end of 9 or 12 inches worth of extensions, and then the ratchet wrench goes on the end. A 3 inch extension closest to the socket and then two more 3's or a 3 and a 6 is easiest because the whole assembly can flex a bit and still turn. Once you get past the manifold, a 3/8 extension can be put on the stack if you run out of 1/4's (with a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter) because there is more clearance.

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1964 Dart 225 1966 Valiant 225
1966 Dart 273 1966 Barracuda 273
1969 Dart 225
'64-170 engine '66-170 engine
(two) 198 crank/rod sets in custom-fitted wooden boxes

wooden motor scooter with hybrid-electric drive

Try a 'wobble bar' if you can get hold of one.

- A Wobble Bar is a socket wrench extension that as a sort of dome sided connector, so that the socket can pivot about 15-20 degress side to side - it's like using a universal joint extension that built in to the connection rather than as a seperate peice.
Lets you fit the socket to the nut and then tilt the socket extension sideways slightly - especially useful for getting the the nuts under cyl 2/3 and to cyl 4/5 and 5/6.

Practise means it will take about 45min to go from old inlet to new and running, and half of that is time take to scrape clean the mating surfaces of old gasket.


PiD v4.0

I swapped mine this past weekend....I had a 1/4" rachet, 3-2" extensions, and a short socket with a small piece of paper packed into the back half. (To keep the nut from pushing back) I also used a small wrench. After you take your old exhaust manifold off, it helps to grind off the little raised ridges around the problem areas. It'll make your life a little easier. (That may be in Doc's article...) If you can, get a buddy/wife/girlfriend to help you get the manifold in place, that iron manifold setup will kill your back.....unless you can get inside the engine bay. Unless you just feel like honkin' it up there yourself to impress said buddy/wife/girlfriend.
Other than that....it just takes time. Good luck!

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

i forgot to add that this is the supersix exhaust manifold with the larger (2 1/4 exhaust thats where it's really bad is the one right behind the heat riser. like i said i can't hardly even see it !!.
lol on the back!! i am currently waiting results on a m.r.i. on some back(psyatic nerve )problems that i already have. luckily, the engine isn't in the car right now. i will be putting on a offy aluminum manifold too which will help a bunch with the weight.
as always,
your input is appreciated.
Chuck

I used a 2ft 3/8 extension to remove the nuts off mine. (It's what I had.) You should be able to feel the socket take hold of the nuts if you have to do it blindfolded. I may have taken the rattle spring off. Can't remember.

I also, at Dan's suggestion, used brass nuts on reassembly. It should prevent seizing and looks nice.

For reassembly, I used the fishing method to get the washers back on the studs I couldn't reach. I used a thin piece of aluminum wire and pushed with a screwdriver. I also had to literally lay over the radiator and valve cover to see what I was doing. Not entirely impossible. You could also do it per the manual and attach it to the head off the engine and install it all as one assembly.

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The Old Goat '83 D150 225-2

AKA Ice Titan

i used thread to ge mine back one. at least to position the washers on right

There is no "super six exhaust manifold". 1bbl and 2bbl engines used the same exhaust manifolds, year for year, and always with 2" outlet. Nevertheless, the baseless rumour persists of a special "2bbl" exhaust manifold.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

you may just have a point there goat. maybe not a bad idea to pull the head. it might just be easier when i get to that point.
i am planning on splitting the manifold anyways, so at that point i may be able to modify for easier access to things
Chuck

I used one of those extension pen magnets to get the washers on. Just held it up to the studs and used an ice pick to transfer from the magnet to stud.

Chuck,
Herniated disc at L4,.. I feel your pain mate,..
Lifting the stock inlet/exhaust combo out as a single unit is no picnic.

I guarantee you that even with the awkward nuts, an alloy manifold and a set of headers is far easier on the lower spine.

Try one of those 'thermal wrap' waist belts that support the gut and spine when you're leaning in to the engine bay, or strangly enough, jack the car up so that you can lay on the guards with your ribs.


PiD v4.0

Use two short 3/8" (3" each) extensions with a universal in the middle of the two. This allows the end one to align properly with the nut, and the outer one to swing out slightly and miss the heat riser. I put the washers on first with a magnet. One the washer is over the stud, lift the magnet up to release the washer from it. It is not easier to gt the entire thing off as a unit with the head. Maybe with two guys it would be. Or maybe with an engine hoist. In either event you would have to change the head gasket, remove rockers, and readjust rockers afterward.

Sam

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Well there is one other plus for the use of headers. You can get to almost all the bolts much much easier. Mopar 6X1 on 72 Dart, piece of cake. Yeah, Yeah, Yeah, I know the down sides too.

Rick