It will hold the choke open when running. remove the choke plate if you aren't going to use it.

Plug in a a vacuum gauge where the pulloff plugs into. I have a gauge on my BBD plugged into mine. I have it hanging on the carb. Easy to set the idle!!

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

You may want to get in touch with the seller of this auction; he's constantly running eBay auctions for Motorcraft 2100-series conversions for AMC 258/4.2 inline Sixes. The Carter BBDs AMC bought for those applications were highly problematic owing to some dumb features AMC apparently insisted on. The Jeep/AMC guys have numerous problems with their BBDs that don't exist with the Chrysler versions of that carb. At the same time, the AMC BBDs have the same bolt pattern and many of the same hookups as the Chrysler BBDs, so this guy probably has words of wisdom on the subject.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks for the suggestions!

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82 D150 Slant6 Shorty
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/658846

I am running a 2100, 1.08 venturi and I don't use "ported" vacuum. I made my own adaptor plate. The commercially available ones are for the Holley 2300's and may leak with the 2100. The ebay guy is interested in selling kits, and they are expensive. The kit is basically a compilation of parts and carburetor setup that have been documented on the Jeep boards.

After the swap, mileage went up, throttle response improved and I didn't notice the lack of ported vacuum for the distributor (12* initial, 30* total, heavy springs). This is in comparison to the 318 BBD I was running.

Some things that I learned. The 2100 water heated choke didn't heat up enough to open the choke, so I was on "fast idle" for a long time after engine warm up. I swapped to an electric choke from a 2150 and sat the pointer on the choke housing to 1/4" past the last notch on the lean side. Try to use the 1/8" isolator gasket, this will help stop fuel boil off after engine shut down. With a drop down air cleaner, you can run a 14x4" air cleaner in a '65 Dart, which puts the rim of the air cleaner against the hood. Some clearancing is required and forget the isolator gasket, a 3" air cleaner would be better. You will need to heat the carburetor. I am using a water heated plate from a F150, but then I am also running a pair of Dutra castings.

When I rebuilt the carburetor, I set it up for a '75 AMC 304 V8. This will give you the 2 stage power valve and "47" jets. Which works perfectly for my setup. The jeep guys talk about leaning out the carburetor, but I haven't found the need too. Parts are readily available from Pony Carbs. Just don't tell them it is on a \6. Remember '75 Jeep Cj5 with 304 and everything will be OK.

I figured mine is off of an 81 ford truck. The kit came with the 2 stage power valve. Is there a way of checking the size of the jets? I really could not see any #'s on the ones in my carb.

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82 D150 Slant6 Shorty
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/658846

be careful with the 2150 it would not work with my adapter when I switched over (it had a huge vaccum leak when it was all bolted up at the back of the carb)about 1/2 of the carb base hangs off the back I opted for the plane jane 2100 worked great till car got hit.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... motorcraft

go to this link and read last post

I did read that before and I have a 1/4in gasket out of the carb kit that covers the adapter and the base of the carb. So, I have no gap.

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82 D150 Slant6 Shorty
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/658846

thats good, I was stupid and did not check any of that and switched over my daily driver (needed to tho the 1 bbl was pissing gas onto the exh. manifold) but i had to drive it like that for a few days till the other carb came in the mail.

The jet number is stamped on the top of the jets.

i realize this is a very OLD thread but I was wondering if anyone that's successfully using this carb has any pics or info on how u set up the linkage. I have a cable throttle so that's not a problem. I'm mostly interested in the kickdown linkage, namely if there's any way to make the original 1 barrel linkage work.

Thanks
Kevin

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crossthreads are better than locktite

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/658846/19 ... cab/page-9

This is the last thing I was able to do on mine and yes you should be able to make it work! Hope it helps!

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82 D150 Slant6 Shorty
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/658846

I haven't actually started on mine yet, I am modding a 1 barrel intake and was going to mount the carb sideways like the 1 barrel setup was thinking the linkage would be easier. But now your pics of the supper six intake have me thinking it might be easier to mount it north- south rather than east-west.

Thanks for the help
Kevin

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crossthreads are better than locktite

The yellow arrow in the picture is pointing at a pipe that supply the original Ford hot air choke with clean air from inside the air cleaner. Original Ford exhaust manifolds has a passage built in for heating that air and supply it to the choke housing. If you don't use that type of choke, just plug the pipe.

The vacuum port is for ported vacuum, ther is no manifold vacuum port on the 2150 carb, these carbs used an adapter plate below the carb, with an outlet port for manifold vacuum.

BTW, that wonderful 'Jeep guy' sent me a warped carb without the ordered extras; if you buy anything from him, order only through eBay, and send payment only through PayPal, that way you can get your money back if he does the same to you.

Olaf.

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Aspenized

Sorry, but you have me a little lost here Olaf. What pic are u refering to?

Kevin

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crossthreads are better than locktite