Well, I metioned this in the parts for sale area and it started some commotion so I thought I would pass it on to this area. Dad got medically retired this last year and wants to play with CNC at home. Being a slanter fanatic I proposed some quality performance parts as a basis of his home business. These would be availible in both 225 and 198 billet aluminum. I don't quite know what material or how to heat treat them. I've contacted a company in sherwood to cut the first set if the price is fair. So any ideas or design ideas or anything drop a line.

http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/ff144/boedighw/

more pics

Send me a set of your best rods and I will build them into an engine and test them for you.
Note #1: I build the engine and run it in my race car at my expense.
Note #2: I run my race car like a... race car.
Note #3: If it goes 'boom', I don't cry & you don't cry.

I would prefer 7+ inch steel rods over aluminum. Hint, all the aluminium rods I have seen for a SL6 will not fit thru a 3.500 bore and therefore, are a pain to install.
DD

that's one handsome lancer Doug!

I'm interested in a set of 198 rods (or 7.1" if custom lenght is on the question) too. And I prefer steel over aluminum too.

_________________
Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

depending on price i would be interested also, again in steel rather than aluminum. keep us posted.

zedpapa

_________________
1970 dodge dart w/225 /6 bored .040" over, holley 390cfm w/vac. sec., compcams 252s, clifford shorty headers w/2.5" exhaust w/flowmaster, f-body 11" front discs, aluminum A-833OD, 8 1/4 w/3.21 SG
soon to have 5 gears!!!

Before I jump on this bandwagon, I'd like to know the strength of a billet rod as compared to a casting and a forging.

Thanks.....Roger

I would guess that would depend on the material used and rod shape.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Wow, I would have never though to even look at that. I could see myself spending thousands and then throwing things when I couldn't get the big end though the bore.

I suppose you have to put the pistons in from the bottom and then have three of your best friends over to hold the rods while you drop the crank in. That would be a hassle.

Great point!

_________________
'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

Actually changing the crank with the pistons still in the bores is easy on the slant. Makes me feel all Offenhauser......

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

well, thanks for the reponses. As for the aluminum the rods yes they are 3.75in wide which compensates for the less dense steel where the rods are "halved". Next, if you read the article Leaning Overkill they have billet rods made from aluminum which saves about 100grams per a cylinder. This helps offset the stroke by making the rotational mass lighter equals higher rpm. Next, I will have to have several cut to the 198 length, I know there is a demand for those. Doug how long would it take you to have a set of rods in a running engine? I have an extra slant, no car to run it in or test it. I would love to loan you a set, however, going to have a single rod cut to make sure clearances are there. Last, how wide are the ARP connector rod's head, that would extremly help as I have no idea.

So how much are we talking for rods. I have a engine on the stand right now being built, but I havnt come up with my long rods yet. Infact its the only thing holding me back. The engine is for my turbo setup and I want to be able to turn it 7000 rpm. I may have scored a 198 today, but I am not 100%sure until I tear it down. The deck was cut some so the numbers are gone. They wansnt sure if it was a 198, the car came factory with one but they was not sure it was the factory engine as the work was done before they bought the car. The l was yanked in favor of a V8 so I picked up the engine. But who knows, I will tear it down tomarrow and see. But still I would rather have better rods. One way or the other the engine is going together very soon with a GT67 turbo on it.


To do what you are planing may be harder than it seems. I inquired about doing this same thing myself and learned I would be just as well off to pay to have them built.


Jess

Sooo...any chance of switching to steel instead?

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

yes, I'm in *if* we're talking about steel, 4340 preferred, 4140 I can live with.

_________________
Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

So that's what it looks like!

I only get to see the tail lights on the return road!

I'd be interested in seeing what could be done with Titanium. We have alloy material available in Albany, though I doubt my mill would be up to the task.

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

ok, well demand has certainly spoken. I talked to a shop today from hubbard, OR who uses a varient of Autocad which is great cause that means they can directly take my design and put it on the machine. I guess that I will simply re-design the 198 rods and manufacture them in the steel form. The billet rods will be able to handle anything we put them through. I will also shrienk the size down to fit through the bore and they will only be availble in the 198 rod size for now. The next battle will be building the foundry at home to heat treat the rods. This will be an on going project but should be pretty cool. The costs are unsure, but I looked at the sbc billet rods are going for 350ish, which might be close for material and the shop is $60 an hour, just a ball park number.