I haven't posted in quite a while, but this project is now under way. The car showed up at the shop last week which means the project is a go. We've done nothing but V8 builds. www.sharadon.com We've talk with Terry at The Supercharger Store and decided that will be our choice of power adder. I'll be visiting this site a WHOLE bunch more in the next few months. I'll need parts and direction and to start with a, a light weight forged crankshaft. Any help from the Slant Six guru's are appreciated.

Just a heads up. This seems like it is going to be a serious project. There are aftermarket connecting rods available, in both a 6.7 inch and 7.0 length, from Cox Bros, maybe elsewhere, also. I understand there were some custom billet cranks made also. Don't know if any are still available. Someone else might know.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

The last time I talked with Mark Goodman, he still had one of the custom made Crower SL6 crankshafts and he wanted to sell it.
DD

Mark is still on the board as Team Green. He posted last weekend.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I know I need to get a light weight, forged crank. From my experience as a teenager with a slant 6, is the #6 rod coming through the block. Any oiling idea's?

The Duster has been stripped down and is now set on casters and is ready to be sent out to be blasted. The shop is filling up with SL6 blocks and parts. lol The customer brought in 2, 2202857-8 blocks and a 2806830-5 which we found a hair line crack in an oil passage. From learning a few things about chosing a block on this site, I told him to try and find a 2806830-10. We'd like to lighten up the 89lb forged crank. Does anyone have a picture of what a 76lb crank looks like? Is this even possible? SS rear springs, Wilwood rear disc's and the front half MagnumForce kit is on order. We'll get the chassis rolling and start working on the cage. This project all started when the customer went to Monster Mopar Weekend with us 2 years ago and watched the Slant 6 class run. I think there's going to be a new member in the group.

The first "Slant Sickness" article has some good info on the cranks.
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/hrm-sl ... ov-pg2.jpg

Only the 60-61 cranks were 80+ lbs, the later units start at 76 lbs and can be reduced to 70-72 lbs with some careful work.

Find a good block, a 5 freeze plug version with extra ribs.
Grind, ream and chamfer all the oil passages, drill the rear boss of the oil gallery.

When you get a good block, acid etch the water jackets and partial fill it with some "block rock" to add some stiffness.
DD

Thanks Doc. This SL6 project is a WHOLE new adventure that we are about to partake in. Actually, I'm really looking foward to it. I know for a fact that I'll need all the help from this site as possible. Everything that I have ever worked on always had 8 cylinders. With my 11th grandchild on the way, I'll be asking alot of questions like my 5 year old grandson helping me out in the shop. I hope everyone can bare with me.

Learning costs you either way so I think this is a pretty cheap database. Also my pap's got a chevy inline six cylinder book this summer, you can find it on amazon pretty quick cause it's the only six cylinder performance book I know of. Pretty much for your horsepower range your going to need to boost it or I know a blue car with yellow stripe on the back was kinda n/a with a lot of NOS. You can bounce some ideas around with some of the other guys.

Found a 76lb forged crank as well as a 198. Still looking for a block. Anyone have any experience using an offset ground crankshaft to get a longer stroke? And where can I find billet main caps or would I have to make my own?

The Guys at Mopar Engines West... Had my crank offset ground for more stroke. Talk to Dave or Rich. They are building a 170 now for someone in New Zeland for a road racer.

Found a block and a 727 transmission. The Pro Charger kit from the Super Charger Store showed up last week as well. Playing around with a big block main cap, we found we can make it work on the /6. Of course we will switch over to billet. The body looked to be in great shape after blasting and removing the under coating with the exception on the trunk floor which was replaced. Just in the process of gathering parts. I'll keep you all updated with the progress.

I suggest a 904 in place of the 727. It will not eat as much power, and will hold the power of even a well built slant.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I know that the 904 is lighter, but we have so many HP 727 parts on hand. Alot of aluminum and straight cut gears, etc, etc. I've never been inside a 904, though I know that a 904 can be built up to 727 standards. It's just that I know what a 727 can do and handle. That's the main reason I went this route.

It's your choice, but you are throwing away ET, and MPH. You are spending a lot of money on the engine. When you get into the 400 hp power range, you can gain more ET and MPH for less money in a 904, then the same amount of money in the engine.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225