On my '83 truck, the oil pump doesn't have a standpipe, and doesn't have threads on the inside of the big hole where you could screw one in. i also have a short oil filter. sometimes on startup after the truck has been sitting for a few days i hear rattling from the valves not getting oil i assume. can someone explain how the tall oil filter is better besides having a larger filtering area? it seems like if the oil is draining out of the filter when the truck sits for a while, then if i had a bigger filter it would take longer to fill with oil on startup.

Yes it would take longer to fill, but if you had a standpipe with the back flow prevention flap in it you wouldn't have the drainback issue, and with a larger filter you have a greater capacity of oil in it during startups...so, with your current situation the larger filter wouldn't help as it drains back anayway....

I'm kind of at a lack of words on the 'big hole' not having threads for the stand pipe...you take a 1" wrench and take your stubby threaded part that you currently screw the filter onto, remove it, and re thread the stand pipe version back in (which you stole from either a junkyard car, or got from some mopar buddy about to junk some old oil pumps...).



-D.Idiot

There are no internal threads, the standpipe presses into the oil filter fitting on the pump. Original pumps have a different filter fitting to receive the standpipe. A good oil filter won't drain back into the pan like a poor filter. Don't use orange oil filters! Wix, Baldwin, Fleetguard, Motorcraft, and Purolator are all better than Fram. I have been using Purolator Pure One oil filters lately. I drain my filters before discarding and I have to not only punch a hole in the shell but also stick a wire in the anti-drainback valve to break the vacuum and drain the oil.

If you want to see the insides of a bunch of filters see this:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

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Joshua

Yeah, it does have those threads, otherwise there'd be no way to attach the oil filter. The central adaptor piece that the oil filter threads onto, itself threads into the oil pump. There are adaptor pieces both with and without the standpipe, but the standpipe itself does not screw into the adaptor piece. It's pressed in.
The lifters on the '81-up hydraulic-lifter slant-6s are dead-last to receive pressurised oil. They are at the very end of a very long hydraulic path. As long as everything's clean and unworn and you're using the right grade of oil, they feed pretty quickly. When there's dirt in the passages and things are worn and you're maybe not using the right grade of oil and maybe not using such a good quality filter, they take awhile to get their oil. You may want to try cleaning out the engine using my Soup recipe, then service the oil pressure regulator valve. Then make sure you're using quality filters (not Fram) and the right grade of oil for your temperature conditions — what are your outside temperatures like, and how many miles are on this engine? — and your lifters shouldn't take so long to get oil.

The taller filter is better at holding oil because there's more oil (== more weight) pressing down on the antidrainback valve after shutdown. You can still get oil draining down the centre hole, of course.

If you can't find a standpipe, you can always use the filter with the built-in standpipe.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

part of the reason fram isn't liked.......

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

personally (I know it is over kill but) I like the amsoil oil filter (and I know off the bat I will probably be ripped up one side and down another about using them) I know they are expensive but just compare the weight of one of them to a fram + I like the thick wall construction of them.

so the part of the oil pump that the filter screws onto, unscrews. that's cool. i'm using 10-30 weight oil, an stp oil filter (made by champion i hear), and my odometer claims 60,000 miles. usual temperature at startup is 40-80 degrees F.

SSD, that has to be your most favorite emoticon, eh?

Naw - Dan just nows where this is heading of to

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

Last year about this time one of those crappy filters plastic bypass valve wiped out my engine!

On the way to work at 5 am going down a hill on I-90 to Seattle I heard my engine squeak! Number one and two rod bearings went with out oil.

The filter was sent in for testing and they say it cleared at 75 pounds. Actually the plastic bypass valve blew apart.

So no more cheap filters for me. Wix 51515 is all I will use.

That cost me the engine...

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

the rods in my 360 used to rattle on cold start up with a Fram. One trashed out my daughter's 3.1 chebby that had no problems. 45mph!

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

To clearify my first post,

I had only 50 miles on a brand new oil change when the new filter collapsed, the plastic by-pass failed. If I hadn't been running synthetic it would have done more damage. I waited till the stores opened that morning and bought another oil filter screwed it on, instant 45 pounds! and drove back home.

No more cheap filters like Fram, Champ or Mighty.............

I had the crank reground .010 under to clean it up. The first two rods were black, because they got so hot!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I have only had one car (a '71 Dart beater in 1989) with an oil standpipe and probably have logged 200k miles on various Slants.

I have had only one bearing (oil related?) failure, which was when pushing a stock shortblock to 6000 RPM repeatedly.

Frankly, I wouldn't put any effort into installing one.

Lou

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