OD Seller noted OD has a short tailshaft & one shifter mount and claims it came off a 318. Are the OD the same for the 6 & 8?

_________________
1965 Dart 125k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exhaust., sbp manual scare-bird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 15 x 4.5 wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throw-out bearing, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump.

If you have found a 1975-1980 A/F body A-833OD from a car with a
slant six or 318, it'll fit your 1975-1980 A/F body slant six bellhousing...


Manual trannies within their 'family' and OD/non 'OD' or 3 spd bellhousings are interchangeable. Go for it..

-D.Idiot


"So anybody put an 11" clutch in a truck with the large bellhousing and use an 18 spline 'Hemi' A-833 behind a slant just to cheese off some B-body guy?!??!"

hello DI- just read your message on 3spd and 4spd ods and bell adaptability. my 3spd floorshift 230 in an 80 volare looks a lot like the 4 speed od in my 76 duster, but i think the input bearing cover on the front of the 3spd trans is smaller than the cover on the 4 spd od trans which wo uld necessitate a different bell . so the od would not go into the bell which the 3 spd is bolted into. am i right? i also think the non od 4 spd from the pre75 a bodies had a smaller input bearing shaft cover than the ods. am i right here? been a few years since i had to pull out a 4spd od. have one in the garage and considering putting it in the 80 volare to get mpg improvement. thats why im curious whether the od will slap right in the big hole in the 3 spd bell. thanks tons for your sage insight. bob fisher ps- still hoping against hope to find a 76 duster dash pad- did you find some good ones on the back shelf of your garage that you want to get rid of?

The Slant 4spd Article indicates the 4 spd OD's have a 5.125 IBR diameter.

_________________
1965 Dart 125k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exhaust., sbp manual scare-bird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 15 x 4.5 wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throw-out bearing, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump.

Here is an extract from the 4 speed article:

"A much cheaper and plentiful bell housing to use is the 1975-81 A-833 Overdrive Slant Six bell housing. The upshot of this bell housing is that it is cast aluminum, the downside is that it only accepts A-833s with 5.125" IBR profiles. When looking for donor vehicles in salvage yards, don't' walk past late seventies slant six three speed cars. Chrysler used the same bell housing for both A-833 Overdrives and three speeds by placing both bolt patterns on the same bell housing."

_________________
1965 Dart 125k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exhaust., sbp manual scare-bird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 15 x 4.5 wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throw-out bearing, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump.

The Bellhousings...

3pd speed only: small IBR, 1975+ can come with the 5.125 IBR (and this part can be swapped to a regular A-833 to make it fit the OD bellhousing)
These bellhousings have only the pattern for bolting up the 3 speed...

4 speed: small IBR for regular A-833, Large IBR for A-833 OD
(truck guys can have the 'large bellhousing' for the 11" clutch and it's drilled for the large IBR NP435...with other patterns in the late models)
These bellhousings have dual patterns to fit either the 3 or 4 spd (except the truck bell as noted above)

-D.Idiot

I'm just an old early A body guy and when the talk goes to this modern stuff from the 70's I get lost.That being said,let me get this straight.What you guys are saying is that I can change the front bearing housing on my iron 1965 A833 trans and use one of those later multi purpose bell housings in my 65 valiant. If I do this will the z bar line up correctly or am I going to have to fabricate a new bracket for the bell side ? How hard are these later bells and input housings to get ?

Yes, you can get one from a 1975+ A-230 3 spd and swap the bearing retainer to your A-833 and get it to fit a 1975+ A-833OD bellhousing...but the z-bar will not line up perfectly so you will have to do some engineering...

Later bell is still common (get one from a car...), the 3 spd retainer I'm not sure about as this is not as easy to find, and the junkyard may require you to actually purchase the whole tranny...

good luck,

-D.Idiot

Hello Valiantwagonguy,

No, you don't have to use the "Z=bar"" (Chevy term). From hard experienceI would suggest it is very easy to use a hydraulic pull slave cylinder driven either by a Mopar master cylinder or new master cylinder made for slaves. Eliminates the bad bushing and torn Z bar attachment problem, too. Doing this allows you to put your tranny about anywhere it goes along the driveline and not have any problem working the clutch.

rock
'64d100

I pulled a hydraulic clutch activation system from a early 70's 4 speed four wheel drive V8 dodge truck and will try to hook it up to drive my 65 slant Dart with 4 spd OD.

The hydraulic system consisted of an integral clutch master cylinder, connecting tubing, and hydraulic clutch activation cylinder with pushrod.

Since the truck system goes from the driver's side, over the V8 engine bellhousing, and to the passenger side it appears to be more than long enough to do the job.

Anyone out there done this and knows what bracket may be fabricated, etc.?

_________________
1965 Dart 125k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exhaust., sbp manual scare-bird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 15 x 4.5 wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throw-out bearing, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump.

dennis - will be glad to add delivery tracking/confirmation USPS - fedex and ups not convenient - pretty sure that service costs .75 extra alan

rock
'64d100

Donpal,

!that last note was a mistake! Someone called me while I was writing a reply and I ended up posting the quick note I intended to send you! Here is an experience.

You sound like you are a pretty good fabricator and scrounger, and I have been called that too. For those of us who like makng things, there really is no end to how the slave mount can be done. On the truck I started with the clutch slave and fork were on the passenger side. I changed trannies, bells, and forks to the 833OD and needed the stuff mounted on the driver side. At that point I started out trying a hydraulic throwout bearing, but never truly trusted it not to leak (even though it wasn't leaking). So I decided to use a conventional TOB and fork to release the clutch.

First I assembled the tranny, fork and bell on the bcnch. I operated the fork through its range from fully engaged to fully released and measured the travel at the fork mount hole where the foot operated rod bolts in. I needed this travel length because levers being what they are, the fork travels a long way to open the clutch disc about 1/8 inch.

Having that length let me shop for a slave that had the travel I needed. I recall the Wilwood had the longest travel by a small amount over the competitors so I got it. I needed a pull instead of a push because I had to mount the slave to the rear of the fork rather than to the front because of how my frame curved and where a crossmember was. If not I would have gone with push slave because that worked for me for 30 years on the original so I knew it worked fine.

I made a simple rectangular frame about 8 inches by 5 inches from 3/16 angle iron with 1.5 inch flanges. It is just what I had laying around. The slave mounts with a eyebolt that has a pivot bearing inside it on the mount end, and a threaded rod to extend to your clutch. From where I had to mount I needed a longer threaded rod to reach the fork so I just unscrewed the stock and cut what I needed from a piece of threaded rod I had laying around. I needed the frame because i wanted a sturdy attachment mounted to the floorboard and to the frame channel. The slave was mounted to the frame by putting a pin through a hole I drilled in the mount rectangle, then put the pin through the slave pivot. Qucik realease was the idea if I ever needed to drop the slave fast.

The fork end was attached by using an old Mopar half dome fork nut over the threaded rod held in place with a hex nut and a jam nut, then I drilled a hole through the threaded rod and put a cotter pin in it for extra good luck.

I could have made the pivot mount in many ways and initially was going to use flat 1/4 inch steel with a hole drilled through it, but I wanted the mount secured in 3 dimensions, not 2. Works like a charm! I used the original clutch master cylinder and just ran a new stainless line to the slave. I used braided line with AN fittings because I wanted to insure a litttle flex was in the system if needed.

It took about a Saturday morning to do, and I was surprised how well it worked. The clutch feels about like a manual clutch.

rock
''64 d100

Thanks for the detailed info

I've got enough to bench mount all components except engine which is in the car with 904 auto behind it.

Maybe I can clamp the flywheel, clutch, & pressure plate on the trans input pinion shaft but have to estimate position. It may alter final fork angle but if I have an adjustable slave to fork link I can adjust when installed in the car to the engine.

Stroke can then be tested to see if it's adequate. When the flywheel & pressure plate drop off the clutch when stroked, I'll know the slave stroked enough.

I'll try pushing with the slave cylinder.

The 4wd truck has plastic tubing "welded" to the slave cylinder and master cylinder.

The problems (or not problems) will be 1) mounting the master cylinder to the firewall & linking to the pedal assembly and 2) mounting the slave to the bellhousing & linking to clutch fork on the driver's side.

I'm expecting a lower pedal pressure/effort than the truck OD stock mechanical linkage since it uses a hydraulic system sized for a 11 inch clutch with a 10 inch clutch. I can always drop the clutch to a still smaller diameter since this application doesn't call for laying down any rubber.

The goal is to reduce clutch effort to assist when in traffic.

_________________
1965 Dart 125k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exhaust., sbp manual scare-bird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 15 x 4.5 wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throw-out bearing, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump.

Hi again DonPal,

You can come truly close even on the bench by using a good mic or digital caliper and measuring the distance from back of block to your crank surface where the flywheel bolts up. Then put the bell, engine side down, on a flat surface and use a good depth gage to measure through the input bearing retainer hole down to the flat surface (representing your block) up to the bell surface that mounts to the tranny. Subtracting the block to crank end height from the block to tranny/bell surface will tell you the depth the flywheel has to be inside the bell. Then just bolt the clutch to the flywheel, mount the bell to the tranny, attach the fork, slide on a TOB, and slide on the clutch and flywheel to the calculated depth. I held mine in place by bolting piece of 3/8 flat stock across the bell and blocking the flywheel in place at the measured location. Draw a picture to save, too because the measurements come in useful in other projects.

As to mounting a master cylinder, remember it doesn't HAVE to be on the firewall. If you want to use an existing pedal and rod then yes, it will. But if you don't have an existing pedal, just use one from Wilwood or JEGS or somesuch place for race car pedals. Th en you can put the MC any place so as to keep it slightly above the slave.

I reckon you are wanting to put the slave on the bell because it was mounted on a bell originally. I t may be simple to make a mild steel bracket to bolt to bell and slave, easier than trying to go direct to bell.

rock
'64d100