You could probably find someone to regrind the stock cam, this works pretty good if you find somone that knows what there doing. But even the stock cam will make a lot of power with a turbo, you just dont really need a big cam for a turbo setup.


When you put a turbo on it will go more RPM that it does now. A turbo will always extend the RPM range of any cam.


On the timing I would try to get it up to around 15 to 18* base & then you willl only need it to advance about 12 to 15* more. Most /6 dont like more than 32* total timing at WOT for performance, but they like a lot of timing at idle & low RPM.


Jess

Lucky13;

I´ll give it a shot but I won´t fiddle witch the mechanical advance since I´ll soon be running EFI to controll the igniton. Now I´m going to pick up my new head, manifold and EFI... Sunday pleaseure

HIgh lift and short duration are the ticket for turbo cam. Turbo is the way to go if you want to keep stock idle, but if you don;t mind a lopey idle, you can get there with a big cam and no turbo. much easier and more cheaply. A big cam, big carb (or EFI) ,and loose converter will get you a pretty quick slant powered car, and should meet your goal. A turbo is definately not as economical as the right carb. And, you don't need high RPM's to get turbo going. Mine starts to spin by 1500RPM. I had to open the waste gate a bit just to keep it from going into boost so readily.

It would be really interesting to see the results of doing the little things first, before you make big changes, just so the guys who can only do the little things will know what kind of changes to expect. In any event, thanks for sharing with us here. I am really looking forward to the results.

OH yes, a low compression ratio is essential for any turbo slant. Mine is 8.5:1 and is really too high, as I can't eliminate detonation without taking out tons of timing. YOur old engine is likely lower than 8:1. so might be a candidate, but then I would worry about the integrity of the lower end when under boost.

One more thing, your slant will work best, and live the longest when thought of as a torque engine. Build for torque, and keep the RPM down pretty low compared to a SBC. They will last forever that way.

There is a ton of knowledge that goes way past mine on this forum. Keep talking to us, and asking questions. We are all supporting you in your effort. Welcome aboard!

Sam

_________________

I would encourage you not to use more than 32 deg total timing (max mechanical advance, no vacuum) for max power. A higher comp engine will like between 26 and 30 deg total. This has been done to death and is how the 225 likes it.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks for all encouraging replys! This evening I have picked up a new head, an aluminum 2-barrel intake and a barely used 318 TBI with harness. I´ll start working on the head and manifold this week and try to document the work as I progress.

I think I´ll skip tomorrows dyno-run and spend time working on the head instead, but I´m pretty sure there are 5-6-7hp to get from more total timing. Anyhow, that will be proved when EFI is installed.

Reasoning behind the bigger cam is beacuse the turbo is stupid-big but I´ve seen them run on 1.8L engines too (nissan) but they do require more rpm. I´ll give it a try, if it won´t do well I switch to a smaller turbo. Figure I´ll try the parts I already own first

Is there a free site where I can upload pictures?

G´night all

and??????

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I personally use photobucket, upload the pics, than it is as simple as the img button, when you load it into photo you'll see a direct link html copy and paste.
[img]www.asdkfjksdfjas;fj.jpeg

I I did a TBI conversion with some maps. already loaded online if you want to take a look under the EFI section. believe you can get to your goal without a turbo, I mean if you have it all planned out that is fine. However, EFi is difficult and would suggest going ahead and doing that first even if your running on stock exhaust manifold and the rest of the engine is up to par cause I believe it's relatively more simple to convert to the turbo after your first maps are roughed out for the engine (correct me if I'm wrong Sam). Last spend some time reading up on the header design from the sounds of it it can really make or break a turbo engine. [/img]

Hi! The EFI-conversion should be pretty straight-forward since that is what I used to do for a living (Now-a-days my work is to check if cars are safe for the road, going by EU Laws.. and have the privilege to work on a dyno).

My plan is to run the engine with ported head, manifold and EFI and make a few runs to get it working properly, and to see if the porting came out as planned. When that is OK I'll add the turbocharger. I'll be using the stock manifold with a bit more tubing to get the turbocharger about where the battery-box is. If it works? don't know..

and click the upload pics thing?

I thought you were trying to show pictures.........

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

If you are planning on the turbo, and are pretty set on that, start with a 2 bar map sensor. In this way all your NA calibrations will be right for the Turbo application when you add it on. If you start with a 1 bar, you will have twice the resolution on the KPA scale, which is nice, but you will then have to start over when you add the turbo and switch to a 2 bar map. . It sounds like you know more about EFI than anybody here, so we will ask you simply keep us up to speed on your progress. I hope to learn from you. Post your EFI progress on the EFI section of the forum. What body style do you have? Is it a 2 dr, or 4 dr?

What ECU are you planning on using? I hope you figure out how to post your fuel and spark maps for us to study. What's the weather like there this time of year?

Sam

_________________

Hi Sam!

I ordered a MegaSquirt ECU with 2,5bar MAP, should arrive soon. Today I´ve started working in the manifold. The porting and cutting is finished, to do is weld a new flange to fit the 318 Holley TBI and epoxy or TIG-weld the "ditch" right beneath the throttle-body. I will post pics of this tomorrow as I have laundery to do and little time to sleep hehe.

The weather.. uhh, let´s not speak of it.. Atm it´s between -5 and +5 celcius, dry air and snow.


BTW: How do you "air" the cooling-system on these engines? My headgasket is blown and tend to leak air into the cooling-system, too much air and the water won´t flow = boiling water.. Would have been nice if I could run the gasket a few more weeks til´my new head is ready.. that way I don´t have to switch gasket 2 times..

G´night all

-5 to +5 C is not much different than what we are getting here right now. It is 33 F. which is just above 0, C, and it should go down to 28 F tonight, which is just below 0 C. I am real excited for you and your progress here. I hope to learn a thing or two,(or three). Thanks for the updates.

Sam

_________________

And here in Johannesburg, South Africa it is a nice balmy 34C - did I mention the humidity.........GAAAASSSSPPPPP

water.....

_________________
Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars