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 Post subject: chrome dual MC?
PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 8:13 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 5:24 pm
Posts: 376
Location: Philadelphia, PA
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I know this probably sounds like a silly question, but I don't mind in the least..
I want to upgrade my master cyl from single to dual on my '65 Dart, I have 9" drums all around, no power anything, and am going to keep it that way for a while. However, as I'm dropping in a "new" engine soon, I'm going to derustify and repaint my engine compartment. I like shiny, sparkly things (I am a 22 year old girl, after all) and thought a nice, shiny chrome MC would look nifty. {wryness} because as we all know, chrome adds horsepower :roll: {/wryness} In any case, are there any reputable companies producing chrome MCs that would fit my car? Or will I have to fall back to my second idea, and get a regular aluminum or cast MC and paint it something sparkly?

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 Post subject: Re: chrome dual MC?
PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 9:02 pm 
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Quote:
I want to upgrade my master cyl from single to dual on my '65 Dart
Smart thinking.
Quote:
I have 9" drums all around, no power anything, and am going to keep it that way for a while.
Mmm...Well, one way to live life in the fast lane is to make sure ya cain't slow down... ;-)
Quote:
thought a nice, shiny chrome MC would look nifty
Oh, it probably would -- in practice it's just the steel cover that gets chromed -- but good chrome's expensive, cheap chrome isn't worth buying 'cause it doesn't last, and a new non-rusty master (even without the chrome) would look a good deal nicer than what you have now. So, it's kind of up to you how to spend money and time, but me, I think I'd probably save the chrome money away for a later brake performance upgrade.
Quote:
because as we all know, chrome adds horsepower
Well, it used to, back when your car was made, but nowtimes yellow vinyl decals in the shape of Japanese letter characters add horsepower. :roll:

[qote]get a regular aluminum or cast MC and paint it something sparkly?[/quote]

That'd certainly be easier and less costly...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 11:51 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2007 1:48 pm
Posts: 351
Location: PDX, OR
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another young oregon member hmm crazy. i just did my engine bay too wit the engine in it. im also covertin to disc so im almost thinkin the same thing... less chrome, i just wanna find some crazy gooey black epoxy paint for the MC and a nice clean cover will look nice...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 7:13 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2003 7:34 am
Posts: 2479
Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
I wonder if the caliper paint kits would work on master cylinder bodies.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 6:17 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
Get an aluminum MC and polish it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 10:57 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2007 1:48 pm
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Location: PDX, OR
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where do you find one thats alum though...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 3:39 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
I believe late model Mopar MCs are often aluminum, They have a 2-hole mounting flange so an adapter is needed but that's readily available too. Someone recently posted a link to a source for them but I don't have it handy. I believe Master Power Brake Co. has them but I'm not sure. Stainless Steel Brakes has one that I'm pretty sure is aluminum, but they want $425.00 for theirs. :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 2:22 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2003 7:54 pm
Posts: 341
Location: Oregon
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Aluminum is the way to go, cast iron is heavy and it rusts. Aluminum can be anodized or if you really want to you could get it nickel plated but I wouldn't bother.

The 2 bolt to 4 bolt adapters are easy to find, check out Mancini Racing, www.magnumHP.com, or other Mopar part houses. I make most of the 2 bolt to 4 bolt adapter plates sold but there some other guys who also make them.

Eberg usually runs specials on his complete master cylinder change over kits on the Moparts board. He sells an aluminum master cylinder with the adapter for a nice price.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 4:43 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 1:50 pm
Posts: 2353
Location: Pertneer Nashville TN
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Quote:
where do you find one thats alum though...
Eboooger is selling them on Moparts right now. Disassemble it. polish it and powder coat it in your Easybake oven at home!! Well regular oven.

Use a clear powder coat! I want to do a carb or two that way!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 8:57 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Fri May 11, 2007 8:12 pm
Posts: 58
Location: Ohio
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The POR-15 company has a coating color which isn't really chrome but still looks great. The trouble with master cylinders is they rust like crazy, and if you don't remove every speck of rust and get back to pure bright shiny metal any ordinary paint & primer system will eventually rust through. Even ordinary chrome plating rusts through. The POR-15 system or competitor's equivalent can be applied over sound rust, is claimed to be totally immune to rusting, and is so tough you have to grind it or blast it to get it off.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 6:02 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 5:24 pm
Posts: 376
Location: Philadelphia, PA
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Quote:
Use a clear powder coat! I want to do a carb or two that way!
I've heard about powder coating, I flipped through one of the books at work that talked about it, but I didn't get a chance to really read through to understand the process completely, and how to get everything necessary and go about powder-coating stuff. Would love to do it to as many parts as possible since what I have read it sounds like it's amazing..
I've pretty much since sadly discarded the chrome idea - for now - since I don't have the money for really good quality chrome stuff... however, I do want something that's as rust-resistant as possible, especially since I'm pretty sure once I take the MC I have off, it'll flake to bits in my hand.

I looked around on moparts but couldn't find what you all were talking about.. could somebody link me please?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 7:47 pm 
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Our own Tom Drake runs a powder coating operation, www.drakecoatings.com . You may want to visit his site and ask him some questions.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 8:37 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Sat Jun 23, 2007 10:16 pm
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Location: Whittier, Ca
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Quote:
Quote:
because as we all know, chrome adds horsepower
Well, it used to, back when your car was made, but nowtimes yellow vinyl decals in the shape of Japanese letter characters add horsepower.
Dunno, my long rice burner uses not so well known english characters :P
SWT SuzukiWorksTechno. It adds .5 more then normal stickers due to the "Waaa?" factor

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 10:03 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Nov 04, 2002 9:07 am
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Location: Cypress, Texas, Northwest Houston. The Lone Star State
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Yes to the aluninum master cylinder.
I would prefer to paint it rather than have it chromed. Another option is to have it "Jet-Hot coated". I had an Offy intake jet-hot coated a few years ago, it still looks good. It almost looks like chrome.

Their number is 1-800-432-3379

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 9:04 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 2908
Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
One thing to consider; with powdercoating or Jet Hot, the part has to go in an oven. You will need to strip ALL the guts out of it and send in a bare housing. But you will have to cap every opening so as not to have the coating interfere with a good seal, or get into the bore of the M/C or the threads. BUT my concern is warpage; will either of these processes distort the housing so as to keep the internal seals from sealing again?
(this concern obviously assumes that you've decided to go with an aluminum rather than a cast iron unit)
IF I were to even consider this,I'd want to start with a brand new M/C rather than a "rebuilt" unit. Although it would be a very thin coating,aren't they anodized originally? Could you get them re anodized, with a thicker coating and/or whatever color that you would want? I will say that while I have seen anodized aluminum before I am not at all familiar with that process, whether it requires heat or whatever. Maybe someone else out there would be able to fill in but that might be another option.


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