A quick note as I have just started following this thread. Dan says use clamp-on style amp meter. MAY SURE ITS FOR DC CURRENT most cheap ones are not their AC. Charrlie S you will probally be happyer with a circuit breaker (time delay type). I really dont know if the make Time Delay Fuses for the Auto Industry.
Hope this helps,
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

I'm perfectly happy with fuse links. I was just bringing up this point for those that are not aware of this. I have seen many vehicles, where the fuse link was burned, due to a bad motor. The owner installed a new fan, and a fuse, instead of repairing the link. 30 amp Fuse would keep blowing, due to the high starting current. But if a higher amp fure were to be installed, it would not protect the wiring if the fan motor were "stalled", for some reason (bad bearing, trash, critter, etc). Vehicle comes to me, it gets repaired correctly, with a new fuse link.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thanks Charlie, I power the fans with a fan/headlight fuse/relay box taken out of a Chevy Metro in the junk yard. It seems to have worked fine. I have simply left in the fuses that were in there. If I redo this part of things, I will consider your advice. It does seem as if a slow blow fuse or circuit breaker would be the ticket here, but I have not seen these in my searching. I have looked, and none are specifically noted as being slow blow.

Sam

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