Hi guys--I'm a long-time lurker here, but I finally joined today.

I recently super-sixed my '66 Valiant. The only issue I'm having with the swap is the super six kickdown rod shoves my column shifter into neutral if I floor it. I read everything I could find on Super Six swaps before I attempted it, but I've never seen anyone have linkage interferance like this. I'm sure someone here has put a super six on a '66 or so A-body, so what am I missing? I got the part-throttle shifts adjusted pretty nicely, so I hate to go cutting and welding the rod and screw up the geometry on it. I only have the knock-to-neutral at WOT in any forward gear.

Thanks!

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1966 Valiant 225 2bbl Super Six
1974 Challenger 360 4bbl
2001 Dakota 5.9 R/T

Well, I got it working on my own. Here's what I did in case anyone searches for this in the future....

I assume I have the right kickdown rod, even though it was too short. (I had made a longer slotted piece for the carb so I could drive it until I got around to making the rod work.) It looked like the pictures I've seen of super six rods anyway.

First, I put the original slotted carb bracket back on as a starting point to see what I had to do to the rod. I cut the rod at the carb end welded in a piece to lengthen that end about 1 1/4". (I had an extra V8 kickdown rod to cut up for this.) I had to rebend it a little bit at this point to get it to clear the gear selector linkage, but it was too short at that end to push the kickdown lever back enough. I ended up welding in another inch or so on the trans end of the rod and grinding it back flat so it would still be adjustable with the set screw. At this point, I was in the ballpark, but it was still hitting the rod for the selector at about half throttle, so I had to bend the corner 90-degree bend under the selector rod down to clear. That got me to about 3/4 throttle with no interference. I noticed the set screw was hitting the selector lever, so I swapped the hex head set screw with an allen head set screw. That bought me a little more movement, but the square adjuster block (that holds the kickdown rod and pivots on the kickdown lever) barely hit the selector lever right where there is a bend in the lever. I took it off and rounded off the corner of the block on the bench grinder. This allowed full motion of the throttle and kickdown in gear with no binding (finally!). I found a longer spring for the adjustable section that goes into the block since I had added length there, and hit the road. After a couple adjustments and test drives, I now have firm upshifts (hits 3rd at about 60 in drive at WOT) and it kicks down like it should. I can finally feel the difference the 2bbl makes--not a bad swap.

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1966 Valiant 225 2bbl Super Six
1974 Challenger 360 4bbl
2001 Dakota 5.9 R/T