I can’t believe that I’ve wasted so much time monkey-ing around with a used exhaust manifold but it looks like I bought a true junk one. I’ve learned my lesson and am ready to order a new one.

Will I have any problem with a new or reconditioned manifold made for a 1970 - 1987 on a 1964 engine? Does the exhaust pipe mate the same?Can I change the round heat riser counterweight if I wanted to?

Any questions that I haven’t thought of? Any and all advice greatly appreciated.

I’m looking at this one:
http://tinyurl.com/33r39g

And this one:
http://tinyurl.com/3xnw6t

Thanks,
Danny

It looks like a later ('73 up) manifold. It is way better than the early maniflolds in that they are reinforced to resist cracking and warping. It will bolt right up to your engine. Personaly, I would just leave the round counter weight. You would have to go through alot of hassle to change over to an early type weight.

A "reconditioned" exhaust manifold...? That's the first time I've seen such a thing on offer. The new ones that are all over the internet for between $100 and $150 are all Chinese-made items. Quality is generally OK, though you can expect to have to enlarge a few mounting holes and grind off some casting flash to facilitate access to the nuts when removing/installing the manifold. All slant-6 exhaust manifolds bolt onto all slant-6 engines. The outlet is always the same size (2"). The later design does have stiffening ribs not present on the earlier versions. The round-counterweight heat control valve is fine; no need to alter or remove it. It is worth your while to get the good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head and the intake-to-exhaust (heat riser/hotbox) junctions. The primary differences in exhaust manifolds are in the choke pocket area; it is different for '60-'65, '66-'69, '70-'72, and '73+. These new Chinese manifolds are all the '73+ design. The earlier choke thermostats won't bolt properly to them. No big loss; do yourself a favour and put in one of the fully adjustable Electric choke kits and you'll be all set.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

got a china made one on my 73 Scamp that has been is service for almost
a year in a daily driver, so far, so good.........
as per Dan, had to do some grinding of casting flash to get a good
bolt up, otherwise a easy bolt up.....
Also used the good Aussie gaskets, no leaks.......

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http://imageevent.com/jeffc
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Belveder A318 727 4d
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4spOD
Old iron or no iron

The center of the intake/exhaust assembly is designed to bolt togther in a pretty much fixed location. The further you get from the center, the more the design is to allow for movement from expansion and contraction. So if you make compromises in bolt hole sizes and such, make your oversized holes etc, bigger as you move toward the ends.]

I put Dutra Duals on mine to minimize the expansion contraction concern. When it is two pieces, the expansion is only half as much. When the stock unit breaks, it almost always breaks right in front of the center hot box. So the Dutra Duals set up does what the stock unit is trying to do anyway, which is to get seperated at the center.

The idea of selling a reconditioned exhaust manifold makes no sense if they are very old. The high heat cooks the carbon out of the cast iron, and they end up pretty brittle and weak. This info comes from a guy who welds cast iron for a living. There is no way to restore the lost carbon save melting it down and starting over with a new batch.

Sam

Sam

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Or as Doug himself says: "The exhaust manifold wants to be two pieces...so...make it two pieces!"

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Another vote for Dutra Duals.

I wish I had pondered this a little more before I ordered the after-market manifold. I don’t care that much about originality but the years of being around old cars has made it my default mode when I’m not thinking. That’s why I bought an old rusty one first. It’s made by Chrysler so it has to be better - right?

I think this will be an on-going project and I don’t want that. My truck has 70k miles on it and this is the third exhaust manifold (that I know of). I have another 6 cylinder engine with the same type set-up and it's had the same manifold for 50 years.

Now I don’t know what to do. I’ve bought two manifolds and have changed my mind again. But I can’t find where to buy the Dutras. Are they something that we have to make ourselves?

you need to PM (private message) DOC, or DR Dodge, doug dutra on this forum, he's the right man for the job!

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63 valiant v200 Wagon 9.5, Schneider cam, E.I. 22 mpg all day

Dutra Duals come directly from Doug. Click the red text to go to the right page.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Sam, I don't think I have ever seen a pic of your exhaust. How did you design the duals to merge with the turbo? Can you post a few pics for us?

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Chris'
Autobody
Restoration
Service

I was wondering - I have two manifolds, one with the front part gone, and one with the rear part - would it be worth the effort to convert them and hook up two pipes to these pieces - leave out the central part - a spin on the dutra idea for those who are cash strapped? or distance impaired in my case

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

hello 68,
a question - is your car left or right hand drive?

regards,Rod