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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 3:25 pm 
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Good to see you, Red. I was wondering where we are at m'self. I'm in for at least one set.

Lou

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 6:26 pm 
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Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Just sent an email off to Sheldon with a couple of questions. Pending his answers, I'm leaning towards jumping in with you guys for a set.

Mine would be used exclusively on a mild street build so was glad to see the provision for internal tip oiling on T&D's web page. I read on an Ozzie site about Dennis' headaches with running a set of Cox Bros. RRs on the street, so wouldn't care to recreate his experience in person.
__________

My proposed cam is that ISKY #152-116:
.448"/.448" valve lift
264º/264º duration (228º/228º @ 50)
46º overlap
alleged RPM range: 2500-6000-RPM
(cam specs predicated on 1.5:1 rocker ratio)

rocker shaft: have a brand new Sealed Power RS-620 (stock replacement) on hand

valves: EPN 1.70"-intake, 1.44" exhaust...3/8" stems

Tranny: 3,000 RPM stall converter on TF 904,
__________

If my math is right, 1.6:1 rocker ratio would bump me up to about .478" of valve lift. I guess that and the quicker valve rise might make some porting/head work even more advisable.

Guess we'll see if this all actually happens, eh?


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 4:52 am 
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Location: Argentina
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well, I sold my project so most likely I'll be out of this (Unless there's really good pricing acording to features. in wich case I might hoard one, as one never knows when the mad dog is gonna bite you again and start to crum a slant six inside a small 80'ish VW... oh hell, I tipped my new project off! :lol: )

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 8:34 am 
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Location: Comfrey MN
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Quote:
... to crum a slant six inside a small 80'ish VW... oh hell, I tipped my new project off! :lol: )
"The Leaning Nazi" I like it!!!

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 9:42 am 
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Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Just spent some time browsing back through old posts on the roller rocker topic and ran into this:

http://www.dutra.org/pictures/engine/pa ... easure.jpg

(clamp is shoring up cracked rocker shaft tower. Doc felt the geometry-correcting shim under the shaft contributed to this happening)

Gives one pause about going with the 1.6 ratio and having to shim for correct geometry. I e-mailed the PIC to Sheldon to see what his thoughts on the subject might be.

Also asked about the rocker tip oiling issue after revewing Doc's posts about feeling the need to install oil spray bars to feed the tips and such. He's certainly no stranger to this engine (understatement) so when he speaks, we would probably be well advised to take note.

Not trying to throw any wet blankets on the fire, here. I just don't want to spend the money and then start lunching valve train parts if the RRs aren't really appropriate for street use or prolonged run times (my intended use).

Will post Sheldon's responses when they arrive.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 11:13 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2006 10:00 am
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Location: Tucson, AZ
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I'll be machining off my rocker stand and then I'll find out what and when I 'm in.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 11:30 am 
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So what's your plan for the rocker stands?

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Last edited by Red on Sun Dec 30, 2007 2:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 1:47 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2006 10:00 am
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Location: Tucson, AZ
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Do to the sbc valves being .140 longer i want to run a setup with different height rockers than the stock rockers to make up for the difference. I'll ask Sheldon to see if he has a setup like that. I just ordered my springs, locks ,and retainers so next it the rockers.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:27 am 
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Sheldon responded to my e-mail today:

"Our rockers are designed around the factory valve length so the geometry will be perfect unless the valve length has been changed. As for the stand cracking I have personally seen this happen to many big block Mopars that people have used the shims under the shaft. Our rockers are all internally oiled so there will be oil going to the tip. As for the ratio all the ratioing is done at the tail of the rocker so this will have no effect on the geometry."

Since I plan to use either MP or EPN 1.70"/1.44" valves, both of which are the same length as the stockers, the above information would seem to render the shimming issue moot for me. He seems to be pretty adamant about the effectiveness of the tip oiling.

New RS-620 shafts are available through Summit if you can't find one elsewhere.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 5:41 pm 
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Location: Tucson, AZ
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I'll machine off the top of my stands and add the extra height with a spacer and saddle like the pic earlier in this post(I think.). Thanks for the shaft info Red thats good to know summit carries them. Well I will check in soon hear and when I have my money I check with everyone that has shown intrest and I start a tread in the parts for sale area. They shoud have a place for major manufactors group buys to be posted and only group buys.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 6:24 pm 
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Location: Nweberg, OR
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Is there a link to the website or pictures that show how the oiling system works? I'm an engineering student, in a house of other engineers, and we've been trying to think of economical ways to solve the problem. So far billet seems to be a little out of our pockets / know how because the oiling on the shaft is in such a wierd location.
The most beneficial way was to cast the rockers with an oiling hole that goes to the tip. With a good heat treatment, we measured that the rockers should hold up fine for anyone running 12.99 and above, but in serious applications it would fail. Now to be somewhat serious I don't know a lot of sixes that would fall in this catergory, but I personally woldn't want anything but the best for my engine either.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 6:48 pm 
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Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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runvs_826

http://www.tdmach.com/page3-5.shtml

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 7:43 pm 
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Cool stuff! That was really ironic cause we had discussed that but threw it aside due to it was exactly where the oil inserted through the shaft. So are the shafts redrilled for this? I assume it wouldn't be that hard to put in another set of hole...wait should've thought of that too.
My last question is what material is the actual roller? This is more a general question for knowledge on my part, not directly directed to these specific rollers. Thanks Red.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 8:18 pm 
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runvs_826,

I'm just another interested party/amateur mechanic here on the board. If you have specific, technical questions, you should contact Sheldon @ T&D directly. He has far more information and knowledge than I do:

775-884-2292

or

Sheldon@TDmach.com

Let us know what you find out.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 3:36 pm 
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Don't know if this will help you guys out or not, but Chuck at Best Machine is willing to do group buys on any part number as long as it is for a Mopar. T&D is included on his list. Only needs 5 instead of 10.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... w/1#UNREAD

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