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 Post subject: Drive shaft e-brake.
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 5:28 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
Car Model:
Does anybody make a drive shaft e brake for the 8 1/4" rear? When I installed the rear disk brake conversion I chose to give up the e-brake. I think I would like to retro fit one now. It always makes me nervous to park it on a hill.

Sam

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 2:58 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Try looking/asking in a 4x4 forum..............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 4:47 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:02 pm
Posts: 1826
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Car Model: '23 T-bucket
Sam, you might want to try some of the street rod parts suppliers.

Total Performance has one, and the link below takes you to one also.
http://www.tsmmfg.com/Parking_Brakes.htm

I was looking for one for a 55-64 Chevy rear when I was pointed toward these guys. I can't say if you'll find one for a Mopar rear, but you may be able to do a bit of adjustment and modification.

Good Luck.....Roger


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 8:37 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2008 4:41 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
Car Model:
Sorry, I sold my anchor. :lol: I used to carry a brick in my car as a wheel chock. Maybe a low tech solution is the way to go.

Sam

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 Post subject: E- brake
PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2008 8:28 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 6:38 pm
Posts: 878
Location: Boulder City Nevada
Car Model:
Sam, Look at some of the street rod shops like " Speedway " . Seems to me that they had the ones that work off of the driveshaft. So. Cal Speedshops maybe another.


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 Post subject: Line Lock
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 3:07 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
What about using a line-lock on the front brakes..........


(secondary usage.......... burnouts)

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 3:32 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
Drive shaft mounted e-brakes were standard Mopar practice until the early 60s. I don't know if one of the old ones could be adapted. You do have to be careful though. If one rear wheel is lifted the brake is rendered useless unless you have a locking dif or limited slip. That's probably why they were discontinued.

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'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
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 Post subject: Re: Line Lock
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 3:38 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
Quote:
What about using a line-lock on the front brakes..........


(secondary usage.......... burnouts)
for that matter, the line lock could be applied to the rear brakes as well or instead; the drawback to that is that the rotors will likely warp if the lock is applied while the brakes are hot. Many aftermarket rear disks use a lever and cam arrangement to apply clamping force to the rotor so perhaps rear rotor warpage isn't a major concern. Either that or they don't care and just want to sell the product.

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'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.


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 Post subject: Re: Line Lock
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 4:35 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 7:19 am
Posts: 470
Location: SC
Car Model: 63 Dart 81 D150
Quote:
Quote:
What about using a line-lock on the front brakes..........


(secondary usage.......... burnouts)
for that matter, the line lock could be applied to the rear brakes as well or instead; the drawback to that is that the rotors will likely warp if the lock is applied while the brakes are hot. Many aftermarket rear disks use a lever and cam arrangement to apply clamping force to the rotor so perhaps rear rotor warpage isn't a major concern. Either that or they don't care and just want to sell the product.
I doubt that warping would be a problem, many cars were built that way, fords, gm's and imports. The only real drawback is having to screw the piston in to replace pads.

Most "aftermarket" rear disk conversions seem to use gm calipers, you might head to the junkyard and look at mid 80's caddys. Might be as simple as swapping calipers and running some cables.

Dodge trucks used a drum mounted to the rear of the transmission well in to the 60's, though a tranny and driveshaft change might be necessary to fit them.
'
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 6:43 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
Car Model:
A caliper swap would do the trick. I kind of avoided the e-barke GM calipers because I was told they were trouble prone. I am using GM calipers currently on the rear from a Monte Carlo. I have been told it is a bad idea to keep line pressure on your brakes for an extended period of time. Thanks for the ideas. I may eventually just go ahead with the rear calipers that have the e-brake incorporated..

Sam

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 12:01 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 7:19 am
Posts: 470
Location: SC
Car Model: 63 Dart 81 D150
The reason the gm calipers are seen as troublesome by many is that most people don't use their e brake, and the mechanism seizes up. And a lot of "brake techs" don't lube the slides. Use anti seize, and use your e brake and you shouldn't have a problem. Remember most cars that these came on were automatics, just throw it in park and get out. The only other pain about these calipers is that instead of just pushing the piston back in to replace the pads, you have to screw the piston in while pushing it in. It really is not that big of deal, parts stores have the tool starting at about $10, in a pinch I have used needle nose pliers to screw them in, harbor freight sells a nice tool for about $30 or so.

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 Post subject: Re: Line Lock
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 12:08 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 27, 2006 8:21 am
Posts: 1614
Location: Orlando, FL
Car Model:
Quote:
What about using a line-lock on the front brakes..........


(secondary usage.......... burnouts)
Other than the fact that the seals wern't disigned to hold long term, I believe that they would possably release as they cooled or slowly leaked by the seal.

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