I want to participate in Bonneville Salt Racing. I plan on using a late 60's Valiant with a slant 6. Step 1, get a car. What type of transmission and rear end will get the highest top end? What will I need to do to the engine? I am new to all of this so any and all advice will be appreciated.
Thanks.

Do you have a copy of the rule book and have you picked a class?
What is the current record in the class (classes) you are loking at?

You may find tat a small cube combo gets to a record easier then the bigger cube engine combos.
DD

Doc is very right. Read up on the classes and rules before you start your parts gathering.

Those guys don't mess around. You WILL have all required safety equipment, and your car WILL be built in a professional manner, or you don't use the salt.
Going for a top end record is serious business, and not to be taken on lightly.

I would suggest something other than a mid-60's Valiant. Those are hardly what one could call aerodynamic. If you want to try, something like an early 60's Valiant should be a bit more slippery. Go with an 8.75" rear with the lowest (numerically) gear ratio you can get (something on the order of 2.30:1), with an overdrive manual trans.

Many of the classes are seperated by cubic inch and weight. As Doc said, it may be easier to meet/beat a record with a small-cube, light car.

Roger

IIRC, the 225 gets lumped into the same class as the 221 small block Ford.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I don't think anything numerically lower than 2.76 is available for the 8 3/4, but with the expected speed and RPM I you very likely won't even be able to use anything lower. Use a regular 1:1 4th gear 4-speed for the transmission.

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Joshua

You may be suprised on the gearing, taller is NOT necesarily faster.
Do some calculations including peak power rpm, tyre size, and some gear ratios, you will see what I mean.

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Richard (aka Fingers)

I would consider using a 7 1/4 rear, if it is in excelent condition. It is lighter then the 8 3/4 and less expensive. I also think it might "consume" less power, but don't know that for a fact.
At Bonneville, you will not be "shock" loading the rearend, and it should hold up fine. I run a 7 1/4 in a 13 sec drag car with slicks. It should have a sure grip, though.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Charlie S- I think you have a good point.
But where on earth can you get a 7 and 1/4 sure grip now?

What I would do is post in the "parts wanted" lists on every Mopar site you can find. They do turn up every so often. The first thing the V-8 guys do, is remove the small rear. I have two complete rears and parts to build another one, but don't want to sell anything, yet. When you get to the point of needing a rear, get back with me, if you haven't found one.. I might decide to sell one. Probably, wouldn't want the gears I have. One 3.91, in my car now. A 5.13 for 1/8 mile, and the parts to build a 4.56 with a brand new R&P.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

GTS nailed it. The rule book is very extensive and you will have to follow it as your bible for building the car. I'm shooting alot from memory here, but the engine classes are also broken into cubic inches. Also if memory serves correctly once you jump over 200 cubic inches you jump up an engine class.

Here's the story of our bonneville experience in the flathead production pickup class.
http://www.lindertech.com/gas/

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Linder Tech.com
Bubba's Trailer Park

That's pretty dang cool. I like the bus too.

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It's a Slant thing. Even I don't understand.

1974 Duster, EFI /6 soon to be turbo...

Get that Monkay! Get that nasty thing!!

Actually the F engine class is 2.01-3.0 liters or 123-183 cubic inches. A 3.5" bore 170 ends up 180.4 ci.

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Joshua