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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 7:06 am 
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Doc
2 quick questions on Twiggy you used a long drill bit to drill past the cam bearings. What size and length? Will you be giving us a birds eye view of the 904 rebuild as well? PLEASE :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
Thanks,
Frank

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73 Duster - Race Car
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178" FED
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 Post subject: lock nut
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 8:06 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 4:26 pm
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Location: CBS Newfoundland Canada
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doug the lock nut on adj screw is it custom made or is it a stock item ? all i use now is green locite after i done my adj and it holds the lash for alot longer,lock nut would be nicer :?:


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 9:13 am 
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Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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Quote:
Doc
2 quick questions on Twiggy you used a long drill bit to drill past the cam bearings. What size and length?
Will you be giving us a birds eye view of the 904 rebuild as well? PLEASE :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
Thanks,
Frank
The drill size is 5/16th (.312) extended shank. The one I have is 12 inches long which is about right, you can get away with 10 inches but not any shorter. Do your drilling before the new cam bearings get installed.
Image

As for the 904 rebuild... to late for a "step by step" build-up article, it's already assembled. I keep these rebuilds pretty basic with new "friction", seals and a front pump bushing. I also put a "TF 2" Transgo shift kit into most of the ones I build and have had good luck with those.

As for any hard part changes inside the tranny, try to use 4 or 5 friction discs in the clutch packs and the wider 2nd gear band (V-8 parts) for the units that will see a lot of drag strip work.
DD

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 9:49 am 
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About those lock nuts....

I ordered a set of "Half Nuts" at the local machine shop. They are just like any other 3/8 fine thread nut but half the depth. They were very inexpensive. They are just the thing.

The hardest part about this item is listening to the comedy act you get when ordering them.....no matter what you say.... "half nuts"will be spoken at least 9 times (with laughter) before you leave.

Then you go to pick them up ....(after the phone call... "yer half nuts....are here!") ....same routine by staff in front of whatever collection of customers is present.....sometimes I play along.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 10:20 am 
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Supercharged
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Sandy,

That's why we call them jam nuts.

Joshua


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 10:41 am 
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My fastener supply man referrs to them as "thin hex nuts"....
We still get into all the jokes and such.

I get the grade 8 hardness and buy them in boxes of 50 for about $8.00 a box. See McMaster Carr stocking number 93839A815 Oh... you can also get them is brass. :wink: :lol:

The key to using a lock nut is to face the top of the rocker arms flat and smooth so the nuts have a good surface to lock-down against.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 11:41 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2003 7:34 am
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Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
I've always heard of these referred to as jam nuts, or thin hex nuts.
The "half-nuts" I'm familiar with are used to engage lathe lead screws, and look like THIS

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 12:53 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
Where do you get the extra length adjusting screws?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 1:04 pm 
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Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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Quote:
Where do you get the extra length adjusting screws?
All the cam grinders seem to carry the longer adjuster ball-studs.
I have got them from Comp, Crane, Crower and Rocker Arm Specialist.
Get the ones with a hex or a "socket cap" (Allen) head, not the slotted end. Using a flat blade screw driver to do a running adjustment really sucks. :cry:
DD


Last edited by Doc on Mon Jan 07, 2008 3:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 2:48 pm 
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Quote:
Quote:
"socket cap" (Alan) head,
DD
I can't believe you misspelled your son's name... :P :shock:

Lou

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 3:29 pm 
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yes... there are too many ways to spell Allen. :P
(or is that Alan, or Alen??)
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 6:41 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Tue Jan 06, 2004 11:21 pm
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and the dmv cant spell Dutra right,Mark


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 6:55 pm 
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Thanks Doug
If you get a chance for the step by step Tranny build i know I would like to see it. My Block is now drilled and ready for the machine shop. :D :D :D :D :D
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 9:48 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
Speaking of drilling and welding, made some special engine mounts for the Guzzi Valiant. The plan is to set the engine back in the chassis so we can get better weight distribution and transfer.

Image

Here is a look at a later "spool type" trans mount that will handle the set-back at the trans cross member location. Speedo gear access becomes a problem when you do this much set-back but this is a race car... we get our speed off the time slip!
We have our fingers crossed that the set back will help with header fitment.
DD

Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 7:17 am 
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Doug
I assume this will get a custom driveshaft. What do you expect to gain ET wise on moving the Engine and Drivetrain back? I take it this will NOT be in an early A as the mounts are spool is this correct?
Thanks
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered


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